madVR - high quality video renderer (GPU assisted)

[htnut]

I've had the odd time HDR mode has stayed active for whatever reason, not enough for it to be a problem though. There is no shortcut for anything relating to HDR mode in MadVR.

Seems to occur when accessing "Special Feature" material on UHD discs. If not every time, often enough to be a problem.

[tp4tissue]

When do you guys think they'll build the 8K pipeline? Madvr seems to be able to handle just about any res. What's the maximum.

[flossy_cake]

I recommend moving to Windows 10 Enterprise IoT LTSC 2021 which is supported until 2032. It's a great OS for madVR HTPC.

Thanks, I have just started installing something similar to that - Windows 10 Pro with this "IoT-like" autounattend.xml file (https://github.com/memstechtips/UnattendedWinstall/tree/main) that automatically debloats it during installation (you place the xml file at the root of the Windows installation media and the Windows installer runs it during installation).

So far my impression is somewhat positive, although I did have to debloat some more things like turning off Windows Security's real-time scanning which slows file transfers to a crawl and this was very difficult to turn off - turns out "tamper protection" has to be manually disabled in the Windows Security settings, in addition to turning off real-time scanning in gpedit.msc, THEN and ONLY THEN does it truly get disabled and survives a reboot, and large file transfers of multiple small files is fast again. To be only getting 5MB/sec on a WD Black SN850X in 2024 is absolutely appalling, but everything is enshittified nowdays so I guess that's the new normal.

There were some other tweaks I did manually like some registry tweaks for delaying the "automatically download and install updates" behaviour (since the autounattend.xml still allows auto updates but only security updates, not "feature" updates or "quality" updates) and some other registry tweaks to get rid of all those nonsense messy redundant garbage shortcut links under "This PC" in the file explorer.

The latest windows 10 driver for Nvidia 3060 has this weird bug in the NVidia control panel where if you change the "color accuracy mode" to another setting it causes the display to temporarily flicker black when reaching the desktop after every reboot as it initialises the "color accuracy mode". Since "Reset to default" in NVCP doesn't reset it to default the only way to stop the display from blinking black on every boot was to reinstall the Nvidia driver with "perform a clean installation" checked and then NEVER TOUCH any of the desktop color settings in NVidia control panel. Saw a post on guru3d complaining of this 4 years ago in 2020 and looks like it still hasn't been fixed and NVidia just wants everyone's monitor to flicker blank after every reboot which imo is really dumb and unprofessional and buggy.

[Sunspark]

If you want to exempt folders, drives or exes from being scanned, all you need to do is set an exception in the settings..

Instead of mucking about with third party scripts or installers, why don't you just install the real IoT iso if that's what you want? All you need to do is type in the massgrave command and it'll be active.

[tp4tissue]

Has anyone tried 3x or 4x 8K monitors? Any issues?

[Celio1080p]

Hello everyone.
I have a low end samsung TV 65 - Model RU7100.

RTX 3070 connected using HDMI on it.

Can someone please help ? i'm using MPC-BE with MadVR, to watch 4K remux movies.

The problem is, the HDR of my TV is trash.

The attached picture is the HDR settings.. i'm doing this right ?

How you guys know what value to put on target peak nits ?

what about tone mapping curve ?

and.. measure each frame's peak iluminance..?

I want to try for best quality.

There are newer builds of MadVR ? should i update ?

[spectmajor]

I have an interesting question.

I have a GTX 1060 3G GPU and since I upgraded my display to a 240 Hz variant, madVR reports presentation glitches on this display. I don't watch movies on this display, but I'd like to solve this issue anyway.

As I figured out varying the queues and "frames in advance" to the usually mentioned values don't help. I settled on 16/8 queue and 1 or 3 frames in advanced (I don't see any difference between 1 and 3). I also tried forcing the vsync on the nvidia control panel, but glitches are still present.

However, if I limit the fps on the nvidia control panel to 120 FPS, the presentation glitches are gone. Looks like it solves the problem. Anything higher than 120, the glitches are starting to present.

My question is: Limiting the FPS in the nvidia control panel, doesn't feel a real solution to me. Or is it? Did I do anything wrong by limiting the FPS? During the movie I don't see any problems, but I'm not sure if this solution is technically correct.

[Klaus1189]

Set nvidia settings monitor technology to fixed refresh rate.
https://www.nvidia.com/content/dam/en-zz/Solutions/geforce/news/g-sync-gets-even-better/nvidia-gsync-nvcpl-configuration-ulmb-mode-640px.png

[spectmajor]

I already did. My nvidia settings are performance mode + fixed refresh rate + vsync + fps limit: 120. Without the fps limit madvr reports thousands of presentation glitches. The counter just goes up without ending.

[Klaus1189]

What version do you use exact build or latest stable.

Do you use smooth motion?

[spectmajor]

I don't use smooth motion. I'm using the latest testing version, since I'm on Windows 11. Only SDR content. The weird thing, limiting the fps to 120 solves the glitches happening, but I just realized, it introduces drops on 60 fps videos (mainly my own recordings).

Btw. what exactly glitches are?

[flossy_cake]

However, if I limit the fps on the nvidia control panel to 120 FPS, the presentation glitches are gone. Looks like it solves the problem. Anything higher than 120, the glitches are starting to present.


I had similar experience with a recently purchased iGPU 12100 + Acer 180hz IPS panel where on a 60fps test video, 120hz doesn't have frame drops but 180hz does even though 60 goes into both 120 and 180. I thought it must just be the iGPU can't handle 180hz, maybe it's too much bandwidth for that pissweak GPU or something, I don't really know.

I've also noticed it's sometimes harder to get a perfectly drop-free video experience on 120hz than it is on 60hz. I don't know why, maybe it's cause the frame queue is temporally longer with 60hz: 3 frames @ 60hz = 50ms vs 25ms for 120hz.

It's not like you have anything to gain by running higher than 120hz anyway if your max video fps is gonna be 60. Anything beyond 120-144 is kind of in "overclock" territory and I'm not sure the OEMs actually guarantee in writing that it will work, usually they make you enable an "overclock" feature in the monitor's menu to "unlock" rates above 144 so it's not really an "official" mode per se.


If you want to exempt folders, drives or exes from being scanned, all you need to do is set an exception in the settings..

I'd rather just have my whole PC running fast as it should.

Instead of mucking about with third party scripts or installers, why don't you just install the real IoT iso if that's what you want?

Because nobody sells legit keys for Enterprise IoT, Microsoft doesn't want us using it. The Git is not just some random person's script, it was created through collaboration and uses the official Microsoft way of doing custom deployment which would be used by enterprises in the real world. You can look through the xml file (https://github.com/memstechtips/UnattendedWinstall/blob/main/IoT-LTSC-Like/autounattend.xml) and there are comments saying what it all does and which reg keys are modified etc. Theres a video about it here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUTdRZNqODY

[flossy_cake]

Hello everyone.

The problem is, the HDR of my TV is trash.

The attached picture is the HDR settings.. i'm doing this right ?

How you guys know what value to put on target peak nits ?

what about tone mapping curve ?

and.. measure each frame's peak iluminance..?

I want to try for best quality.

There are newer builds of MadVR ? should i update ?

We can't see your settings image because image attachments aren't supported anymore on this forum it seems (it will just perpetually stay at "pending approval").

You have 2 options when playing HDR files on your HDR Samsung:

1. Set madvr to "passthrough HDR to display" and then you should see how good your TV's tonemapping is at doing HDR. You said it's shit so I'm guessing you don't want this?

2. Downscale HDR files to SDR using madvr's "tonemap HDR using pixel shaders" and then just watch it as SDR. This can still look pretty good imo, but maybe not in an A-B comparison :)

For my SDR Samsung plasma I use target peak nits = 200, tone mapping curve = bt.2390, color tweaks for fire and exploshi = disabled, highlighter recovery = none. These are the only options available to me in the final public non-beta version of madvr. The beta versions have all kinds of extra knobs you can twiddle, if youre into that.

Now there is one thing I am not sure about - playing a HDR file, using madvr's "tonemap HDR using pixel shaders" , and outputting HDR signal to display. Is this even a thing? Would anyone even use it in this config? To try to improve their TV's internal HDR tonemapping?

:thanks:

[huhn]

I don't use smooth motion. I'm using the latest testing version, since I'm on Windows 11. Only SDR content. The weird thing, limiting the fps to 120 solves the glitches happening, but I just realized, it introduces drops on 60 fps videos (mainly my own recordings).

Btw. what exactly glitches are?

a presentation glitch is for example a mistimed frame from the windows DWM. for example a composition rate mis match will usually result in presentation glitches.

a repeated dropped or delayed frame not from madVR but the windows it self.

if you limited the frame rate to something the desktop composition my don't like that and frames are displayed when they shouldn't be.

[Alexkral]

Now there is one thing I am not sure about - playing a HDR file, using madvr's "tonemap HDR using pixel shaders" , and outputting HDR signal to display. Is this even a thing? Would anyone even use it in this config? To try to improve their TV's internal HDR tonemapping?

:thanks:

That option should be unchecked when using pixel shaders, because then the video is no longer HDR. You can easily see that the result is not good anyway.

Target peak nits should be set to the peak nits of the display (and then set the backlight accordingly), but I would recommend setting it lower (around 125 nits for a 300 nit display) in most cases (but not all! You should try it yourself).

[huhn]

but that option keeps it hdr.

[Alexkral]

Yeah, sorry, the HDR is so bad on my display that I didn't notice. But then madVR isn't doing any tone mapping.

[huhn]

no it is.
it is tone mapping to the peak nit you define.

[Alexkral]

You're right, I would never have suspected that. So this way you can tonemap up to say 1000 nits and send the HDR signal to the display to do the rest of the tone mapping. I'm not sure what use this is, but there may be.

[Manni]

You're right, I would never have suspected that. So this way you can tonemap up to say 1000 nits and send the HDR signal to the display to do the rest of the tone mapping. I'm not sure what use this is, but there may be.

The use is to have madVR do the tonemapping instead of the TV, which means you get dynamic tonemapping even for HDR10, while still being able to access the full brightness of the TV, which is often only available in its HDR mode. So if you tonemap to HDR, you can have peak nits of say 1,000nits, while if you tonemap to SDR you’re often limited to a few hundred nits at most.

[flossy_cake]

The use is to have madVR do the tonemapping instead of the TV, which means you get dynamic tonemapping even for HDR10, while still being able to access the full brightness of the TV, which is often only available in its HDR mode. So if you tonemap to HDR, you can have peak nits of say 1,000nits, while if you tonemap to SDR you’re often limited to a few hundred nits at most.


Ok so I guess we just need to find the peak nits value of our HDR display which corresponds to the point where its own HDR tonemapping would "kick in", and set MadVR tonemapping just below that nits value, so then we would avoid the display doing any tonemapping and now madVR is taking over the tonemapping, do I have that right?

Is it possible the display's tonemapping is still active all the time so you end up still getting a combination of the display's tonemapping + MadVRs tonemapping? I guess it depends on the display and whether you can disable its own tonemapping like on the LG OLED you can turn it off in the menu.

[huhn]

you always get a combination of both. it can be very small to still quite a lot.

peak nits are not archivable under any situation gamut differences volume differences you get the idea.

[NeonPhoenix]

Hey guys, which Hardware Decoder is the best for a RTX 4070 user? Also, are there any settings that seem incorrect or could be set to a better option? Here is the link to lav video app settings: https://imgur.com/a/rt0WVZ6

[NeonPhoenix]

I literally just installed this, and it says it has an update. Should I do it or it is unstable and should be avoided? Here is my version and the updated version information: https://imgur.com/a/7erhMjq

[Manni]

Ok so I guess we just need to find the peak nits value of our HDR display which corresponds to the point where its own HDR tonemapping would "kick in", and set MadVR tonemapping just below that nits value, so then we would avoid the display doing any tonemapping and now madVR is taking over the tonemapping, do I have that right?

Is it possible the display's tonemapping is still active all the time so you end up still getting a combination of the display's tonemapping + MadVRs tonemapping? I guess it depends on the display and whether you can disable its own tonemapping like on the LG OLED you can turn it off in the menu.
You definitely have to select static tonemapping in the display, but even that doesn’t mean the display won’t do a bit of tonemapping. Still, you’ll get much higher peak brightness and much better (dynamic) tonemapping from madVR (or JRVR, which is what I now use). Try to use different pattern sizes to evaluate peak brightness, usually peak is attained with 1-10% size patterns at 100% white. I use 10% size with my Samsung S90C. Make sure you don’t use PGen and Calman for that, as it uses 11% patterns instead of 10% size ones, which slightly impacts on the measurements. Obviously the accuracy of the meter matters as well, but it’s usually a good approximation.

[SamuriHL]

For newer LG OLED displays, you can set the tone curve through calibration. What I and others do is for the 1000 nit tone curve, set it to 100. That means it'll clip above that instead of a gradual roll off. Measuring your peak nits, you can configure madvr (or jrvr in our case) to that value and then you'll tone map to the peak nits and clip above it.

Sent from my SM-S928U1 using Tapatalk

[tp4tissue]

For newer LG OLED displays, you can set the tone curve through calibration. What I and others do is for the 1000 nit tone curve, set it to 100. That means it'll clip above that instead of a gradual roll off. Measuring your peak nits, you can configure madvr (or jrvr in our case) to that value and then you'll tone map to the peak nits and clip above it.

This works well for the badly graded scenes. I actually really like highlight recovery even though I know it's inaccurate. :p

I've noticed that it causes odd flicker sometimes as it doesn't interact with the ABL as tightly as the tv's onboard algo.

[tp4tissue]

I use 10% size with my Samsung S90C. Make sure you don’t use PGen and Calman for that, as it uses 11% patterns instead of 10% size ones, which slightly impacts on the measurements. Obviously the accuracy of the meter matters as well, but it’s usually a good approximation.

Make sure you let it cool between measurements. 10% hots up the panel fiercly on my 90c. Peak will hit 1270 after hot. whereas it's around 1190 from cold.

The trouble with HDR is that it changes so much between hot and cold. So you don't get a very repeatable measurement for profiling in HDR. 10% is not a big deal. I would say even go less like 5% so the temp doesn't change as much during measurements.

If you're not profiling, it doesn't really matter, just set it to 1200 or 1300 and be done with it.

[tp4tissue]

Hello everyone.
I have a low end samsung TV 65 - Model RU7100.

RTX 3070 connected using HDMI on it.


I had a 7000 series and an 8000 series curved samsung TV, the onboard tonemapping is indeed Trash. EPIC BAD. :scared:

Madvr to the rescue.

You want to set the TV to maximum brightness in its warmest mode. Movie mode, Warm 2

Then tell Madvr to tonemap to SDR. Peak nits set to 270 nits, Highlight recovery set to Insane.

Make sure you're hooked up using 8bit, 444,rgb, the 10bit processing on the TV is not great, don't use 10bit. Madvr does a better job of dithering gradiants than the TV.

Under the calibration setting, tell madvr the TV is calibrated to 709, gamma 22.

Turn off the TV's power saving /eco functions.

I highly recommend you get a colorimeter to dial the TV in, but given that a colorimeter is almost 1/3 the cost of the tv. The experts would call that frivolous.

[tp4tissue]

Ok so I guess we just need to find the peak nits value of our HDR display which corresponds to the point where its own HDR tonemapping would "kick in", and set MadVR tonemapping just below that nits value, so then we would avoid the display doing any tonemapping and now madVR is taking over the tonemapping, do I have that right?


Which TV do you have Flossy. It really depends on the TV.

[huhn]

Make sure you let it cool between measurements. 10% hots up the panel fiercly on my 90c. Peak will hit 1270 after hot. whereas it's around 1190 from cold.

The trouble with HDR is that it changes so much between hot and cold. So you don't get a very repeatable measurement for profiling in HDR. 10% is not a big deal. I would say even go less like 5% so the temp doesn't change as much during measurements.

If you're not profiling, it doesn't really matter, just set it to 1200 or 1300 and be done with it.

you don't care about the cold pre-set you care about the hot one it will heat when you play something om it anyway.

if you do contact measurements you usually also heat up the meter first.

[tp4tissue]

you don't care about the cold pre-set you care about the hot one

This is what I thought going into this, as it was always the case on LCD. You go in hot.

But on Oled, especially on 77 inch samsam. The dissipation area is very large.

Normal usage barely warms up the panel, and even when it does, it might not be the center. And during patch testing, it rapidly cools.

I've tested this extensively, normal use 120nits barely hots up the panel. And the 2:1 aspect ratio movies, even in HDR, even less than SDR 16:9 content.

The only time you can get stable hot performance is if you turn off the AC, and let the room get up to around 85 F ambient.

Most of the time, in most real movies, the panel is running COLD state the whole movie.

As for heating up the sensor, I did this with LCD as well, because sensor noise doesn't really matter measuring LCD black points. But on oled, I've noticed that sensor heat adds enough noise to mess with deep black measurements, not by alot, but it's noticable. Some inconsistent 2-5% readings.

[Alexkral]

Anyway, I wonder what the point of all this is when the MaxCLL in the last titles I've checked is below 200 nits, and it's very common to find lately that it's below 400. :(

[huhn]

gamut roll of and not much if you watch that is not hdr.

[huhn]

This is what I thought going into this, as it was always the case on LCD. You go in hot.

But on Oled, especially on 77 inch samsam. The dissipation area is very large.

Normal usage barely warms up the panel, and even when it does, it might not be the center. And during patch testing, it rapidly cools.

I've tested this extensively, normal use 120nits barely hots up the panel. And the 2:1 aspect ratio movies, even in HDR, even less than SDR 16:9 content.

The only time you can get stable hot performance is if you turn off the AC, and let the room get up to around 85 F ambient.

Most of the time, in most real movies, the panel is running COLD state the whole movie.

As for heating up the sensor, I did this with LCD as well, because sensor noise doesn't really matter measuring LCD black points. But on oled, I've noticed that sensor heat adds enough noise to mess with deep black measurements, not by alot, but it's noticable. Some inconsistent 2-5% readings.
s90c is a waste of time:

contact mode:
https://i.postimg.cc/Y9mnzpG0/image.png
https://i.postimg.cc/Kj00Z4C9/image.png

i have never seen a TV do something like this.

VVR brightness jumps
broken 144 hz with more the most black crush why wouldn't it do that having a different black crush depending on the refreshrate is quite an achievement samsung. if you are in game mode it will tell you that you are in game mode EVERYTIME just to make sure to remind you...

the rest of the issue i have with it are mostly done to my model or the firmware i have here. factory default fmm: https://postimg.cc/BLkrmGPD
i have 70% BT 709 coverage outside game.
the black detail stuff just adds very notable green noise...
the gamut changes relative to the gamma setting. (that's very had to mess up on a TV BTW. you just change the gamma of the input signal first by the usually 0.05 to 0.2 a TV can do and always get the accurate result...)
as you also confirmed it already really doesn't care about HDMI signal flags if you are in PC mode or high refershrate.
well there is always a new software around the corner maybe with generally 3:2 judder.
color gamut option "this function is not available".
PC mode or high refreshrate have no 20 point calibration...
the default position of secondaries is somewhere.
bt 1886 means gamma 2.2 in pc mode obviously!
i have so heavy black crush displaycal will not even let me start calibrating (yes i know how to work around it it's just to make a point).

i'm going to update to 1430.3 from 1420.9 pain here i come.

[flossy_cake]

Which TV do you have Flossy. It really depends on the TV.

I only have a SDR Samsung plasma so my question about doing MadVR tonemapping + outputting HDR to the display doesn't really apply to me, at least not yet (the plasma is dying of pixel misfiring, have ordered a y-board from China but not getting my hopes up).

So just to clarify... the MadVR HDR tonemapping can indeed be used while outputting HDR signal? I presume this would only be the case when NOT selecting to use the BT.2390 curve as that seems to relate to HDR->SDR conversion if I'm not mistaken. Or is 2390 also useful for HDR->HDR conversions as well?

[huhn]

curves also apply to HDR.

[mclingo]

I just bought an AMD 7800 XT Thinking I was just upgrading to get a bit more gpu grunt for gaming but I am horrified to find out that not only 3D not working but I can't produce 23.976 in movies just like Nvidia cards, I havent looked into this yet but please tell me there is just something wrong with my pc setup and amd haven't gone the same way as Nvidia because if that's true I have just wasted 400 quid, I should have bought an Nvidia card.... I am just still within 30 days so I can probably get a refund can someone let me know

[tp4tissue]

Yea I have 2x90c 77, the one I bought later is slightly better but not by much.

120hz mode doesn't have the black crush problem. My unit had near perfect 2.2 gamma out of the box.

144hz indeed has crush. It's better after 200hours burn in, but 2% is still a bit low. Unusable for HDR.

I use 120hz for everything. SDR gaming on 144 is fine, since games aren't graded to exacting enough standards for 1-5% to matter, gamma table is enough to correct down to 3%. The rest crush.

The green Push is due to your color space setting. Game mode is pretty messed up gamut wise. It's got some sort of vivid lut built in that you can't disable.

Setting HDR gamut to custom rec2020 gets rid of the green push.

SDR green push is not there as long as you're in PC graphics mode, colorspace set to Normal. It does weird things in Native and Custom.

SDR game mode doesn't have green push, but it does have a twist in magenta.

[mclingo]

I just bought an AMD 7800 XT Thinking I was just upgrading to get a bit more gpu grunt for gaming but I am horrified to find out that not only 3D not working but I can't produce 23.976 in movies just like Nvidia cards, I havent looked into this yet but please tell me there is just something wrong with my pc setup and amd haven't gone the same way as Nvidia because if that's true I have just wasted 400 quid, I should have bought an Nvidia card.... I am just still within 30 days so I can probably get a refund can someone let me know

After reinstalling the drivers I can actually still get 3D thankfully but I cannot get 23.976 no matter what I do, has AMD withdrawn native support for this?

[huhn]

the number at the top is relative to the CPU and irrelevant.

btw. you also had this issue with your 5700 xt but it did got away later. twice if i remember correctly.
i just had to throw my 5700 XT out for good so i can not test at all.
Yea I have 2x90c 77, the one I bought later is slightly better but not by much.

120hz mode doesn't have the black crush problem. My unit had near perfect 2.2 gamma out of the box.

144hz indeed has crush. It's better after 200hours burn in, but 2% is still a bit low. Unusable for HDR.

I use 120hz for everything. SDR gaming on 144 is fine, since games aren't graded to exacting enough standards for 1-5% to matter, gamma table is enough to correct down to 3%. The rest crush.

The green Push is due to your color space setting. Game mode is pretty messed up gamut wise. It's got some sort of vivid lut built in that you can't disable.

Setting HDR gamut to custom rec2020 gets rid of the green push.

SDR green push is not there as long as you're in PC graphics mode, colorspace set to Normal. It does weird things in Native and Custom.

SDR game mode doesn't have green push, but it does have a twist in magenta.

i just native and pull a 3D LUT over this piece of samsung.
as long as my gamut is bugged out i'm doomed anyway.
updating from 13xx was a huge huge mistake this is nearly for sure killing my gamut.

[mclingo]

Oh dear am I the only person left using an AMD card on this forum or at least stupid enough to buy a 7000 series card?

[flossy_cake]

After reinstalling the drivers I can actually still get 3D thankfully but I cannot get 23.976 no matter what I do, has AMD withdrawn native support for this?

You could try using DDU (https://www.guru3d.com/download/display-driver-uninstaller-download/) to purge any residue of previous drivers

At Windows startup the GPU driver should retrieve all compatible modes from your LG OLED's EDID and populate the list of Windows display modes with those modes

I would be very surprised if your LG's EDID didn't specify a 24hz mode, it should all just be available to you out of the box. Can you post a screenshot showing what modes are available in Windows display settings?

You can use CRU (https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU) to dump your LG's EDID and then read it at edidreader.com where you should perhaps find a CTA block for a 24hz mode.

If I recall correctly, the CTA block only specifies that it supports 24.0hz and it's left up to the device (in this case the GPU driver) to implement the timings for both a 24.0hz and a 23.976hz mode. In other words, TV's EDID just says "I support 24hz CTA timings" (without actually specifying what those timings are) and GPU driver then goes "oh ok, I know what CTA timings are, so I will create a 23.976hz and a 24.0hz mode using CTA timings and add those to the list of allowed display modes". At least that's how it works on my NVIDIA and AMD GPUs with a Samsung plasma up to 1080p resolutions. I don't know if it's the same for 4k (I'm assuming it probably is?).


144hz indeed has crush. It's better after 200hours burn in, but 2% is still a bit low. Unusable for HDR.

Calibration Tools (tiny.cc/CalibrationTools) might be useful to boost the near-black tones a bit

https://b.l3n.co/i/eVDdue.png

The "gain" slider sets the amount of brightening and the "range" sets the range over which it tapers off back to normal brightness level. It uses the GPU gamma table.

[mclingo]

to be honest I couldnt really work out out to pull the EDID info form CRU and I wasnt really sure which entry was the right one anyway. I copied the EDID from MADVR and couldnt find anything about CTA blocks.

This is what I am seeing when I play a movie, its really odd.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!AgvFafeelEBiwLEtmBgFK4BBAXugpw?e=17sgE3

what more off is if i decouple my reciever and plug straight into my TV I get this, I dont get it.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!AgvFafeelEBiwLEwlP_igRy3w9lowg?e=LVLEQ8

both are reporting the display incorrectly but one drops no frames.


cru

https://1drv.ms/i/s!AgvFafeelEBiwLExfYqCoCB6ep9dUQ?e=HRbpAb

I've aleady tried DDU, thats the first thing I though it was, I then tried a drive which I know was working on on my old RX 5700 card and that made no difference either. The other odd thing is when I go into MADVR display modes, custom res flickers up and then disapears so I cant even create and test custom res.

[mclingo]

I fixed it thank god..

I ran the CRU reset and cleared out some old entries in their and then ran DDU WIPE again, this time all is good, I cant deal with any frame skips when watching a movie, not even one, it bugs the hell out of me :)

[Celio1080p]

We can't see your settings image because image attachments aren't supported anymore on this forum it seems (it will just perpetually stay at "pending approval").

You have 2 options when playing HDR files on your HDR Samsung:

1. Set madvr to "passthrough HDR to display" and then you should see how good your TV's tonemapping is at doing HDR. You said it's shit so I'm guessing you don't want this?

2. Downscale HDR files to SDR using madvr's "tonemap HDR using pixel shaders" and then just watch it as SDR. This can still look pretty good imo, but maybe not in an A-B comparison :)

For my SDR Samsung plasma I use target peak nits = 200, tone mapping curve = bt.2390, color tweaks for fire and exploshi = disabled, highlighter recovery = none. These are the only options available to me in the final public non-beta version of madvr. The beta versions have all kinds of extra knobs you can twiddle, if youre into that.

Now there is one thing I am not sure about - playing a HDR file, using madvr's "tonemap HDR using pixel shaders" , and outputting HDR signal to display. Is this even a thing? Would anyone even use it in this config? To try to improve their TV's internal HDR tonemapping?

:thanks:
Hey there, first.. thank you very much for your attention xD
So, about the attachment. It seems to be working for me. Even on private tab on Edge.
The "passthrough HDR to display" is a no go for me. My TV is too trash for that.
I'm using "tone map HDR using pixel shaders."
target peak nits: 100
tone mapping curve: BT.2390
And i have enabled the "measure each frame's peak luminance."
Most options you said, it seem to not be available for me on my MadVR..
There are newer free versions ? i thought i was using the latest version..
Sorry my english.

I had a 7000 series and an 8000 series curved samsung TV, the onboard tonemapping is indeed Trash. EPIC BAD. :scared:

Madvr to the rescue.

You want to set the TV to maximum brightness in its warmest mode. Movie mode, Warm 2

Then tell Madvr to tonemap to SDR. Peak nits set to 270 nits, Highlight recovery set to Insane.

Make sure you're hooked up using 8bit, 444,rgb, the 10bit processing on the TV is not great, don't use 10bit. Madvr does a better job of dithering gradiants than the TV.

Under the calibration setting, tell madvr the TV is calibrated to 709, gamma 22.

Turn off the TV's power saving /eco functions.

I highly recommend you get a colorimeter to dial the TV in, but given that a colorimeter is almost 1/3 the cost of the tv. The experts would call that frivolous.
Hey there. Thank you too for your attention xD
About the movie mode. I can't access it.
Only one option available, is the default one.
I'm connecting my RTX 3070 using HDMI directly on my TV.
Maybe that's why. I have enabled the Input Signal Plus on my TV too.
About the nits. I think 270 looks bad for me. Like the colors are.. washed out ?

My TV is set to Gamma 2.2 i think. And i had disable all power saving and eco functions. I hate that.

I have to set my settings to the maximum ?
Backlight
Brightness
Contrast

All of them ?
I didn't do that because i use my TV not only to watch movies..
But to watch animes, and mostly.. as a desktop.

What is 709 ? i have to change something on my TV too ?
I know about the colorimeter but unfortunately.. i don't have money.
That's why i have such a low end TV.

[tp4tissue]

i just native and pull a 3D LUT over this piece of samsung.
as long as my gamut is bugged out i'm doomed anyway.
updating from 13xx was a huge huge mistake this is nearly for sure killing my gamut.

The hdr or sdr gamut?

I don't think I fully understand the issue you're describing. I'm still 1310. :scared: I still have my own gamut bugs.

FMM is always garbage, always, I never use it. It's an incorrect pretense to clamp gamut to exact edges of rec709 or dci p3.

[tp4tissue]

About the nits. I think 270 looks bad for me. Like the colors are.. washed out ?

My TV is set to Gamma 2.2 i think.

I have to set my settings to the maximum ?
Backlight
Brightness
Contrast

All of them ?

270 nits setting is for madvr because it's the peak brightness of your TV RU7100 in it's Warm 2 setting.

In Madvr HDR, use these settings as base. https://imgur.com/dCMmibb

Under Madvr's calibration tab, select this display is calibrated for rec709, gamma 2.2

On TV,

Go to Picture Mode -> Movie (If the movie mode looks desaturated (clamping gamut), then leave it on standard).

Go to Expert Setting -> Backlight Max, Brightness 0, Contrast 45, Sharpness 0, Color 25, Tint 0, Color Tone Warm2

You do the expert settings part whether you're in standard or movie.

[tp4tissue]

So just to clarify... the MadVR HDR tonemapping can indeed be used while outputting HDR signal?

Yea, you can double up on tonemapping. Madvr + Native TV's

For example, Madvr's highlight recovery sharpens highlights, it does not respect the creator's intent, but I like how it looks, so I use it for movies that actually push highlights past the 1250nits my TV is supposed to do.

Though I have my doubts as to the Oled's actual ability to produce fast moving highlights.

[Manni]

The hdr or sdr gamut?
FMM is always garbage, always, I never use it. It's an incorrect pretense to clamp gamut to exact edges of rec709 or dci p3.

This isn't true, you just need to learn how to use it.

You can get excellent results with FMM, using gamut Auto in SDR (with color 25) and custom BT2020 (with color 20) in HDR, at least on the S90C. The CMS works fairly well as long as you find the right balance between different saturation levels and gives near reference results. I feel no need to use a 3D LUT in SDR.