madVR - high quality video renderer (GPU assisted)

[eddman]

How do I mirror a video with madvr? I can do it with EVR custom by pressing Alt+6, but doesn't work with madvr.

[Asmodian]

madVR does not support mirroring but it does support rotation.
Control + Shift + Alt + Right Arrow | Clockwise
Control + Shift + Alt + Left Arrow | Counterclockwise

Why do you want to mirror the video?

[tp4tissue]

LG's DTM is an acquired taste. One that sadly I never acquired. LOL I VASTLY prefer madvr's tone mapping to LG's. We can't get rid of LG's entirely on our OLED's, but, we can limit its impact by tone mapping to 700 nits or less (or in your case 400). The work that's been done is tremendous.

Don't worry, OLED is obsolete THIS YEAR.

Hisense LMCL (dual layer LCD) will be available quarter 3 USA, 2020 :D

Everyone said it was impossible,, then I were like, naw dawg, 2 years tops.

And here we are only 1 Year after.

[Asmodian]

Dual layer LCD hardly makes OLED obsolete. :rolleyes:

Self emissive pixels is the future of displays, dual layer LCD is a temporary stopgap. OLED is also a stopgap but at least it is self emissive. Didn't we see a dual layer LCD at last year's CES? I don't think anyone said it was impossible, just not very bright, still not perfect blacks, and they have the same LCD issues with viewing angles. 2 million zone FALD is way better than 1000 zone FALD but it is still not an ideal display technology.

[SamuriHL]

When we see a 4000 nit self emissive display then we can talk about technology becoming obsolete. :)

[nevcairiel]

Dual layer LCD hardly makes OLED obsolete. :rolleyes:

Self emissive pixels is the future of displays, dual layer LCD is a temporary stopgap. OLED is also a stopgap but at least it is self emissive. Didn't we see a dual layer LCD at last year's CES? I don't think anyone said it was impossible, just not very bright, still not perfect blacks, and they have the same LCD issues with viewing angles. 2 million zone FALD is way better than 1000 zone FALD but it is still not an ideal display technology.

Personally I would rather buy a dual-layer LCD then an OLED. OLEDs downsides are just so annoying when they start hitting. Nevermind that I regularly use my TV at average lighting conditions, where higher brightness helps.

Perfect blacks? Well sure, nothing but self-emissive will ever reach 0, but blacks in the range of 0.00003 nits and a static contrast of 1.000.000:1 (1000:1 squared due to two LCD filters) is quite substantial - and with a significantly higher peak brightness then OLED. And no burn-in or ABL.

Viewing Angles are an old LCD problem and there is a lot of technology to work around it, so I'm not all that worried. And afterall, how off-center do viewers usually sit.

I do hope that 2020 might see the first production TV with that tech, but it does not appear that the major TV makers are quite on board with that yet. Maybe they are afraid it would cannibalize their investments into other tech too much. (Only Hisense and Panasonic openly confirmed that they are working on this technology).
But that announced Hisense TV at least looks pretty good on paper, with the cited black values and contrast above, with full DCI-P3 coverage and 1000 nits peak brightness. Well, we'll see later this year if it holds up, or gets delayed.

[toki]

ok, I'm back. I'm having trouble fine tuning to my liking 100%. I'm using sharpen edges at 0.6, I've tried multiple other combos, but I still can't find anything that I'm 100% completely satisfied with. What would your suggestions be? I am on a Sony X950G.

[ryrynz]

Don't worry, OLED is obsolete THIS YEAR.


So far from the truth it's laughable. OLED is ramping up in a big way, more manufacturers, smaller screens, lower prices, lower power consumption.
Unless you have a FALD screen you cannot compete with this technology and even then you're typically at a disadvantage in multiple areas.
However.. the Samsung Q90R is very nice as far as FALD screens go and the only comparable set to an OLED AFAIC, it's a shame it comes at a premium being an 8K set.
QD-OLED vs LG OLED is the battle for premium coming soon. Samsung knows they need self-emissive tech to truly compete.

ok, I'm back. I'm having trouble fine tuning to my liking 100%.

Sounds like you should be fine tuning or calibrating your set, that's always the staring point and this is not the place to be for that. Nice TV though.

[tp4tissue]

Personally I would rather buy a dual-layer LCD then an OLED. OLEDs downsides are just so annoying when they start hitting. Nevermind that I regularly use my TV at average lighting conditions, where higher brightness helps.

Perfect blacks? Well sure, nothing but self-emissive will ever reach 0, but blacks in the range of 0.00003 nits and a static contrast of 1.000.000:1 (1000:1 squared due to two LCD filters) is quite substantial - and with a significantly higher peak brightness then OLED. And no burn-in or ABL.

Viewing Angles are an old LCD problem and there is a lot of technology to work around it, so I'm not all that worried. And afterall, how off-center do viewers usually sit.

I do hope that 2020 might see the first production TV with that tech, but it does not appear that the major TV makers are quite on board with that yet. Maybe they are afraid it would cannibalize their investments into other tech too much. (Only Hisense and Panasonic openly confirmed that they are working on this technology).
But that announced Hisense TV at least looks pretty good on paper, with the cited black values and contrast above, with full DCI-P3 coverage and 1000 nits peak brightness. Well, we'll see later this year if it holds up, or gets delayed.

Precisely. Add to that OLED is being phased out for Color Grading.

Look at it this way, IF they're no longer grading on OLED, what use is OLED. Why would you buy something the disc was not graded for.

Sony has phased out their oled hdr grading monitor FOR panasonic's LMCL, Ontop of that, Panasonic released their LMCL 50" Megacon large grading monitor

WHY NOT OLED, both color and brightness are unstable, that makes them inherently Unreliable. It will ALWAYS be limited by ABL.

Contrast is also relative, just like you don't NEED 10,000 nits to give a good impression of Daylight, you also don't NEED 0 nits to give a good impression of Black.

In fact 0.01 nit is black enough for anything except in a Pitch black room, attempting to display Another pitch black room.


LMCL is the future, it is compatible with ALL backlight strobe technology for motion clarity

It will NOT burn in,

It can hit the 4,000 nit upcoming target.

OLED, will probably NEVER hit 4,000. Even if it did, rapid burn in.

LMCL, all day 4,000 nit, won't break a sweat. It is even ready to do 10K nit Today, if only people could afford it.

For OLED to catch up to even 2K nit, it'd have to be a completely different chemistry. So they'd have to invent that, THEN build new factories. All the while LMCL will be absorbing all the High end Dollars.

OLED will always be there for mobile , but big format, it's very likely game over.

The downsides of OLED are too many, perfect black just isn't that important.

With LMCL, theoretically, using 2x VA panels, with an X-wide filter, 7000*2 / 3 = 16.3 Million :1 Contrast ratio.

This will give, 0.000061 nit blacks @ 10,000 NIT, Your non-industrial colorimeter can't even reliably measure that low. ~ 0.003

In terms of Consumer usage scenarios, more and more people are using their TVs as PC monitors, or cast interfaces, these will all have many static elements, something OLED simply can not endure.

[huhn]

the laws of thermodynamic. i guess let's just ignore them.

what is an LCD?
it's not a diode it doesn't produce light no it made to "block" light (change it so the polarisation filter blocks more) so by using two you get more brightness? by letting the light pass through more objects which is work.
not saying it will massively lower light output but it will clearly not increase it.
and do i have to explain some serious heat/power consumption problems if you are not managing the light output using the backlight but only the LCD by blocking the light with a polarisation filter only.

what produces the light in a LCD TV.
the backlight as everyone should know CCFL, LED or even OLED is a possibility this part is the most important part to get more nits what makes dual layer LCD use a different backlight and stops single layer form using the same backlight?

and just for fun the micro led from sony is an oled.
BTW. you don't master stuff for an display technology or for a similar or the same display.
the whole point of calibration is to reproduce the same color on all device types.

until the technology is out and proofed nothing changes it's just marketing garaged and you are falling for it.

[ryrynz]

until the technology is out and proofed nothing changes it's just marketing garaged and you are falling for it.

Yeah, the market ain't switching up like he thinks it's going to. Pipe dreams.

[nevcairiel]

Yeah, the market ain't switching up like he thinks it's going to. Pipe dreams.

Its not, but it should. OLED is nothing but a gateway technology for TVs. Its far from perfect. But the companies invested too much into it to treat it like that, because OLED manufacturing is complex and expensive, so they have to sell it like the absolute premium product, and pretend its the bestest ever.

Proper MicroLED should resolve most of the shortcomings that OLED faces, but it'll be a couple more years, and be very expensive at the start.

Dual-LCDs are also a gateway technology, just like OLED, but if it works as expected (and the basic technology is sound, and prototypes looked good so far), then it should overall be a better compromise both in cost and disadvantages over OLED. I would happily trade in a bit of black level performance, that 99% of users are not going to care about anyway due to lighting conditions, over higher brightness and no burn-ins.

And re: higher brightness, the problem with single-layer LCDs is the contrast. You can absolutely put better backlights into any LCD and get the same level of peak brightness, but with ordinary LCD contrast (maybe 3000:1 on a VA panel), you also greatly inflate the black levels. Hence Full-Array Local Dimming, but that has too large zones and still causes Haloing/Clouding even in the best screens if the brightness is turned up too high.

Dual-LCDs resolve that by practically having an insanely high static contrast. You can put high-powered backlights in without needing FALD-like technologies, since the LCD filter just takes care of it.

In a decade time, or so, I would expect (or maybe hope) mid-range TVs to use Dual-LCDs, and High-Ends using MicroLED.

[huhn]

they still have to use FALD or they have to pump as an example 1000 nits at every pixel even through only a small number of pixel need that and you don't want this it's extremely inefficient and you have to remove the heat.

i can't disagree about the contrast not the claimed numbers but in general it will be better that's solid and makes sense.

OLED is supposed to be far more power efficient then LED and we don't have true pure OLED yet or forever.
we know that LG coated WRGB are everything but efficient.

[mclingo]

ah yes, a new player i the OLED vs LCD war, now its OLED vs LCD vs DUAL LCD. I dont really care which one wins out as long as we all win PQ wise, however after years of being told LCD is now close to OLED and finding the opposite in a ptich black room i'm still scpetical.

For me pure blacks are far from unimportant as I watch in a pitch black room with no bias light when I'm watching a blockbuster, not so much for other stuff, its essential for me to only see the movie and not the black bars at all so the movie floats in thin air in a dark scene like a star field, ive sat in front on a Q90 and Q85r with local dimming on full and nominal brightness and backlight settings and I still see the grey bars in pitch black.

I wont be moving from OLED until we get zero % blacks, blacks over nits for me anytime, mine is only 400 nits and its plenty for most stuff, 700 would be the sweat spot for me but my current TV has 3D so i'm keeping it as long as I can.

also - 4.5 yeas and no burn in....

[jojo54000]

Hello,
Could someone explain to me how the "dynamic hdr" introduced by madvr works?
can that completely replace hdr10 + metadata when available in a movie?
and if so, is it better than hdr10 +?
if I understood correctly to activate the dynamic hdr of madvr, you must activate the tonemapping in the specifications of the target screen, and check the box "output video in hdr format", is that correct?
on the other hand, I noticed that it did not work if no hdr10 / hdr10 + metadata was present in the source file, so dynamic hdr uses hdr10 metadata?
Thanks.

[Magik Mark]

I'm trying to move subtitles to the bottom of the screen. It seems I can't figure it out why sometimes it is successful and there are times it set on the bottom of the image especially letter boxed videos.

It would be nice if it just settle on the black bars

I'm using xysubfilter


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[huhn]

it doesn't work with every type of subtitles and it will never move subtitle with positioning information.

[toki]

Sounds like you should be fine tuning or calibrating your set, that's always the staring point and this is not the place to be for that. Nice TV though.

Thank you, that suggestion really helps me with my fine tuning of madVR settings and I will now try that. I really appreciate the help.

[el Filou]

Viewing Angles are an old LCD problem and there is a lot of technology to work around it, so I'm not all that worried. And afterall, how off-center do viewers usually sit.Viewing angles are still a problem for VA panels. Every few months I visit a store to look at the sets, and I am still able to guess which sets are LCD without looking at the stickers just by the colour shift in dark areas. And the bigger the screen the more obvious the issue, I don't even have to be off-center to see it on the edges.Could someone explain to me how the "dynamic hdr" introduced by madvr works?
can that completely replace hdr10 + metadata when available in a movie?
and if so, is it better than hdr10 +?madVR doesn't support HDR10+, so its own dynamic tone mapping is all it can use, and yes, its goal is to approach the same quality as HDR10+ with just HDR10 and scene+frame analysis. Explaining all the details of how it works is too complicated for me. ;)if I understood correctly to activate the dynamic hdr of madvr, you must activate the tonemapping in the specifications of the target screen, and check the box "output video in hdr format", is that correct?That's correct. You also have to specify your display's actual peak brightness. For some displays, if you want to totally avoid their own tone mapping you have to specify a lower value that depends on the display's internal processing setup (those values can sometimes be found on model-specific forum threads).on the other hand, I noticed that it did not work if no hdr10 / hdr10 + metadata was present in the source file, so dynamic hdr uses hdr10 metadata?
Thanks.madVR uses metadata to detect that a source is HDR. Theoretically, madVR's dynamic tonemapping could work even without metadata if you inform it manually that the source is HDR and inform it of the colour space, as it analyses the frames to measure all the values it needs, but I haven't tested it.

[tp4tissue]

ah yes, a new player i the OLED vs LCD war, now its OLED vs LCD vs DUAL LCD. I dont really care which one wins out as long as we all win PQ wise, however after years of being told LCD is now close to OLED and finding the opposite in a ptich black room i'm still scpetical.

For me pure blacks are far from unimportant as I watch in a pitch black room with no bias light when I'm watching a blockbuster, not so much for other stuff, its essential for me to only see the movie and not the black bars at all so the movie floats in thin air in a dark scene like a star field, ive sat in front on a Q90 and Q85r with local dimming on full and nominal brightness and backlight settings and I still see the grey bars in pitch black.

I wont be moving from OLED until we get zero % blacks, blacks over nits for me anytime, mine is only 400 nits and its plenty for most stuff, 700 would be the sweat spot for me but my current TV has 3D so i'm keeping it as long as I can.

also - 4.5 yeas and no burn in....


If your oled doesn't have burn in, Then you're not using it very much.

My friend recently got an oled laptop during BF, and he already has burnin due to his linux consoles.

LMCL is an all day, all purpose panel.

And it may not matter what YOU WANT, If the Color-Graders ditch OLED, which is what they are doing, then that's the end of OLED.

Watching a movie in pitch black is not practical, anytime there's HDR element on screen it really digs into your eyes painfully. And I personally very much like to see my soda and not spill it.

HDR is hard specced to be viewed in a 5 nit environments. And in a 5 nit room, even 0.01nit blacks look almost entirely black. and future LMCL will do even better than that.

Look at it this way, Oled is like a 10/10 girlfriend, that can't cook. LMCL is like a 9/10 girlfriend, that's a pro chef, does the dishes AND gives great massages. ;)

[mclingo]

You coulnt be more wrong my friend.

I use my TV every day for 6+ hours, more at the weekend, I have no burn in as I know the TV's limitations, dont leave static stuff on the screen too long and leave your TV in standby mode overnight so it can complete its compensation cycles, rocket science this isnt mate.

Pitch black viewing impractical, have you been to a cinema?

Too bright?, turn it down...

Cheers but i'll keep my 10/10 girlfreind and just get a takeaway.

:)

[Magik Mark]

it doesn't work with every type of subtitles and it will never move subtitle with positioning information.



I only use srt. No positioning info


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[huhn]

there was something about italic or so it been a couple of years.

not sure if it ever got fixed i guess the last beta build from madshi fixed that no guarantee here sorry. so try a newer test version of xy subfilter.

feels kinda odd to talk about madVR related topics in the madVR thread.

[mclingo]

yeah your're right, however, pretty sure MADSHI has abandoned this thead now, others have said it too on other forums. Whether its our own fault for spamming it with none related stuff is hard to say but we've all gone off piste from time to time.

if he comes back after the release then maybe we should push other stuff to the general or driver thread to try keep it clean, we could really do with a mods help with that but they pretty much dont exist at the moment.

[ryrynz]

dont leave static stuff on the screen too long and leave your TV in standby mode overnight so it can complete its compensation cycles, rocket science this isnt mate.


On screen elements, brightness, software burn in prevention and panel all play a part here.. We had an LG C8 get burn in playing a demo that showed the Dolby logo for a few seconds every few minutes or so. Phillips said its looking to basically resolve burn in issues and putting a large amount of cash into developing a solution which hopefully it licenses out to others.

yeah your're right, however, pretty sure MADSHI has abandoned this thead now.

Don't say stuff like this it's untrue. He's finishing up the final build but likely will still be dealing with Envy stuff for a while.

[mclingo]

sounds like a duff panel to me, I forget to put my browser in full screen mode sometimes and my static bookmarks bar and menu can be sat there for ages before I spot it, still no screen burn after 4.5 years of this.

I get that you have to take care of your OLED and that you cant just turn it on and leave it llike an LCD but for me the PQ is worth it, I also have a samsung LCD.

i've found if I follow these simple rules i get no screen burn but maybe brighter some screens are more susceptable.

1. auto hide win task bar
2. everything in dark mode
3. put web pages in full screen mode if i'm on it for a while.
4. set screen savers for 3 minutes
5. remove OSD from games where possible


you're right of course that was a silly thing to say, he's probably not but he's not posted anything at all in nearly a year, it certainly feels like he has sometimes.

[Yog_Sothoth]

Hello, guys. I have a problem with madvr. For some time now (about several months) I have a terrible jitter on videos which are not normal 24fps videos, i.e. 25fps, 50fps, or 60fps. I just reinstalled my Windows, installed new k-lite codec pack, left all the settings to default, and the problem occurred again. It doesn't seem to occur with over renderers, such as EVR. I've tried using different players, tried to change some settings, mostly it didn't help. But I discovered that enabling "disable automatic source type detection" in the deinterlacing section and setting it to "force film mode" helped to partly solve the problem. That one option allows to dispose of the jitter, but only for DVD-videos, in other problematic ones, the problem stays the same. So I have no idea, why this is happening and when it started, but all had been fine before. I also have a receiver, through which my monitor is connected, so maybe that's relevant somehow.

[tp4tissue]

sounds like a duff panel to me, I forget to put my browser in full screen mode sometimes and my static bookmarks bar and menu can be sat there for ages before I spot it, still no screen burn after 4.5 years of this.

I get that you have to take care of your OLED and that you cant just turn it on and leave it llike an LCD but for me the PQ is worth it, I also have a samsung LCD.

i've found if I follow these simple rules i get no screen burn but maybe brighter some screens are more susceptable.

1. auto hide win task bar
2. everything in dark mode
3. put web pages in full screen mode if i'm on it for a while.
4. set screen savers for 3 minutes
5. remove OSD from games where possible




Those are NOT simple rules, Oled owners live in a bubble similar to Stockholm syndrome, They've been babying a TV for so long, that they have no perspective on just how impractical the device is.

Once LMCL comes out and everyone gets on the right train, You'll very quickly realize how batshit crazy you are for having owned an oled to begin with. :D

Imagine having to press 5 different buttons to roll down your car window, That's oled ownership in a nutshell.

[mclingo]

Hi, could be a number of things, plus jitter could also mean different things too, you might not be properly refresh rate matching or over taxing your CPU or GPU with MADVR / PLAYER / decoding - start by adding your kit list to your signiture like mine so we can see what you're dealing with. Then when playing a movie press CONTROL+J and take a screen shot of the readout, when you post it dont upload the image, using a URL link.

[mclingo]

Those are NOT simple rules, Oled owners live in a bubble similar to Stockholm syndrome, They've been babying a TV for so long, that they have no perspective on just how impractical the device is.

Once LMCL comes out and everyone gets on the right train, You'll very quickly realize how batshit crazy you are for having owned an oled to begin with. :D

Imagine having to press 5 different buttons to roll down your car window, That's oled ownership in a nutshell.

Sorry but thats just nonsense and I think you know it is so i'm not going get into a protracted discussion about it.

[SamuriHL]

Guess I should just turn off my OLED and wait for some future technology to come out so I can watch movies and TV again. LMAO As I've said before, once your future tech is ready to be purchased and bugs worked out (i.e. NOT first gen tech), I'll be ready to replace my OLED. Those of us coming from plasma already know the "rules" so it's not exactly difficult.

[ryrynz]

You'll very quickly realize how batshit crazy you are for having owned an oled to begin with. :D


Looking at top end consumer screens every day and can tell you anyone with an OLED that has zero issues with it (the majority of owners) are very happy indeed.
Spotting an OLED apart from any other screen is typically child's play and the reason being that just look that much better than most other screens available.
I never once regretted any of my plasmas (owned about four of five models over the years) and I'm very much enjoying the crazy clarity of my OLED.

[jojo54000]

Viewing angles are still a problem for VA panels. Every few months I visit a store to look at the sets, and I am still able to guess which sets are LCD without looking at the stickers just by the colour shift in dark areas. And the bigger the screen the more obvious the issue, I don't even have to be off-center to see it on the edges.madVR doesn't support HDR10+, so its own dynamic tone mapping is all it can use, and yes, its goal is to approach the same quality as HDR10+ with just HDR10 and scene+frame analysis. Explaining all the details of how it works is too complicated for me. ;)That's correct. You also have to specify your display's actual peak brightness. For some displays, if you want to totally avoid their own tone mapping you have to specify a lower value that depends on the display's internal processing setup (those values can sometimes be found on model-specific forum threads).madVR uses metadata to detect that a source is HDR. Theoretically, madVR's dynamic tonemapping could work even without metadata if you inform it manually that the source is HDR and inform it of the colour space, as it analyses the frames to measure all the values it needs, but I haven't tested it.

Thanks for your explanation!
but where found display's actual peak brightness ? I specify 100nits for my non-hdr screen (samsung ue50h6400). it's correct ?

[ryrynz]

What's correct really is what looks best to you and what your TV is set/calibrated to. 100 seems like it would be a bit too low, your TV can hit about 300 nits.

[solidservo]

I use Kodi Dsplayer with MadVR and I am very happy with it!

There is just one thing that bugs me and that is that I can't get MadVR to use "NV, HDR, 10bit" - it always uses "NV, HDR, 8bit" (the TV switches to HDR10 though according to the onscreen overlay on my Samsung QE65Q9FNATXZG).

HDR pass-through is enabled inside MadVR and the native color depth of the TV is set to "10bit or higher" in MadVR.

https://i.imgur.com/iUzP966.jpg

If I enabled HDR inside windows 10 then mad VR uses "OS HDR 12 bit"

GPU is an RTX 2060, Windows 10 64bit pro.

What am I doing wrong?

[madjock]

"What am I doing wrong?"

Well not using search :), but the gist is its fine at 8 bit due to madVRs dithering. There are a million threads on this thread about it.

[mclingo]

Hi, yeah KODI Ds is fantastic isnt it.

The answer for this is probably better coming from an NVIDIA user, there are some issues with driver versions and the ability to select bit rates and create custom resolutions. However, many people on here would just say dont bother mate leave it, 8bit dithered is indisinguishable from 10bit, you're not missing anything really, just enjoy your movie and forget about it :)

[chros]

Perfect blacks? Well sure, nothing but self-emissive will ever reach 0, but blacks in the range of 0.00003 nits and a static contrast of 1.000.000:1 (1000:1 squared due to two LCD filters) is quite substantial - and with a significantly higher peak brightness then OLED. And no burn-in or ABL.
I'm not sure at all about the ABL part: the Q90R also has it (although not that drastic as on Oleds).

Look at it this way, Oled is like a 10/10 girlfriend, that can't cook. LMCL is like a 9/10 girlfriend, that's a pro chef, does the dishes AND gives great massages. ;)

Cheers but i'll keep my 10/10 girlfreind and just get a takeaway. :)

:D

Guess I should just turn off my OLED and wait for some future technology to come out so I can watch movies and TV again. LMAO As I've said before, once your future tech is ready to be purchased and bugs worked out (i.e. NOT first gen tech), I'll be ready to replace my OLED.

This. You can already buy an OLED (for reasonably money) and nothing compares to it today.
Is it without flaws? No, unfortunately (but which one was in the history of displays?):
- mainly the uniformity issues are the problem (possible tinting, near black jail bars), if you are unlucky
- but ABL is and (I think) will be there on every set in the future as well
- burn-in is definitely not an issue if you use it as a TV (tv shows, movies)

As @SamuriHL said, new technologies also will need time to get mature, and only that time we will see whether they're good enough compared to Oleds!

One thing is for sure: this is the best display tech so far for TV usage. And who knows, maybe it will always be?

Spotting an OLED apart from any other screen is typically child's play and the reason being that just look that much better than most other screens available.
The sharpness, hence the resulting contrast, that individual pixels can achieve is unbeatable. That's the best thing for me, not the perfect black. :)

[solidservo]

Well not using search :), but the gist is its fine at 8 bit due to madVRs dithering. There are a million threads on this thread about it.
:thanks:

In the threads I found madshi talked about MadVR using a "hidden nvidia API" to switch the output from 8bit to 10bit when HDR content is played.

To me that sounded like in my case it should be possible to get "NV, HDR, 10bit" when I play 23/24Hz content.

I can select 10bit inside the nvcpl for 4k@23/24/30hz, but as soon as MadVR starts the playback it seems to do a resolution/color depth switch and then it uses 8bit. :confused:

However, many people on here would just say dont bother mate leave it, 8bit dithered is indisinguishable from 10bit, you're not missing anything really, just enjoy your movie and forget about it :)
:thanks:

[madjock]

Just search "10 bit dithering" in this thread, and read for the next 2 years. :)

[jasonwc18]

It depends if you're using the same calibration for both, and which device you're using.

Unfortunately the rs600 on its own is unable to detect SDR BT2020 vs rec-709 and switch automatically between a rec-709 and a BT2020 calibration. It's only able to detect HDR10 and apply its awful gamma D curve, which you definitely don't want.

So you have three ways to use madVR to automatically display the content correctly:

1) You're using an SDR BT2020 calibration for all content. This means that unless you need your iris fully open even for SDR content, you are most likely sacrificing black floor / contrast in SDR rec-709 to privilege brightness in HDR, running all with the iris fully open and using the P3 filter to get a wide gamut. In that case, assuming your two 3D LUTs use this same BT2020 baseline, madVR can switch between each LUT automatically. If you don't want to use the LUT anymore, simply specify "this display is already calibrated to"in the calibration tab, and specify SDR BT2020 and whichever gamma you've used in your calibration (usually 2.4, but it can be anything, as long as your target for the 3D LUT is 2.2 if you're using one for HDR tonemapping, though in that case it's recommended to target P3 rather than BT2020 to avoid posterization). madVR will automatically convert rec-709 content so that it displays correctly with your BT2020 calibration. There is no need for profiles.

2) You're using an SDR Rec709 calibration for all content. This means that you are most likey sacrificing brightness and gamut cover in HDR in order to maximise black floor / native contrast, not using the filter (unless you can't reach 709 wihtout it) and closing the iris further to reach 50/60nits in sdr rec-709 (or brighter if you don't have a dedicated room). If you don't need the 3D LUTs anymore, you simply specify "this display is already calibrated to" and you specify rec-709 and whichever gamma the display is actually calibrated. MadVR will automatically tonemap BT2020 content to fit into your rec-709 calibration. There is no need for profiles.

3) You don't want to compromise either content type, so you have two calibrations on the JVC (rec-709, no filter, iris closed to get best black floor / native contrast and around 50-60nits peak) and SDR BT2020 (2020, P3 filter, iris open to get the highest peak brightness, hence headroom for HDR highlights, at the cost of a higher black floor / reduced native contrast). You will need profiles to tell madVR which calibration you're using for each content type. If you're not using 3D LUTs, you can specify "this display is already calibrated" to either rec-709 or BT2020 using a different profile for each content. In that case, you can either switch manually between the two calibrations on the JVC, or if you have an nVidia GPU and a Vertex/Maestro/Diva you can select the "report BT2020" box in the calibration tab for your BT2020 profile, and make sure it's unchecked in your rec-709 profile. The HD fury device will detect if the content is rec-709 or BT2020 according to the flag, and provided you have installed an rs-232 cable and programmed the device accordingly, it will select the correct calibration automatically, according to content. MadVR will select the correct profile according to content, and will know which calibration you're using thanks to each profile. See here for more info: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/2222586-official-jvc-rs600-rs500-x950r-x750r-x9000-x7000-owners-thread-931.html#post55408090

There are other ways to achieve this using batch files instead of an HD Fury device but they are even more complicated and don't work reliably in my experience.

Thanks for the excellent explanation of the situation. I've chosen option 3 for my calibration and I don't use a Fury. So, I'll just Alt-Tab each time and switch from BT.709 to BT.2020 in madvr. I mostly watch regular Blu-Rays anyhow for the superior blacks.

[Fandangos]

To me that sounded like in my case it should be possible to get "NV, HDR, 10bit" when I play 23/24Hz content.



I often work with NVApi and I tried to switch to 10bit output using it.
It won't work, it won't do it: for RGB, for YCbCr yes it is possible using Nvapi.

This is how I did for my Kodi fork:
https://github.com/fandangos/Kodi-HDR-Edition/commit/ae5decc46821719872b06ea58ab95e2f6bf50434#diff-f8caa521c89617495fd9c18d71c44349R491


But that's not what I came here to ask.

Today I own a 1080Ti, does the 2080Ti offers any improvements on what can be used with Madvr?

I only have problems if everything is set to very high, even luma quadrupling.
So I just wanted to check if anyone with a 2080Ti could tell if there's any change.
And of course I won't buy a 2080Ti just for Madvr, gaming in 4k would be the reason to.

[mclingo]

someone will have one but they may not have come from a 1080, the usual rule of thumb is to look at the gaming performance of the card, the percentage gap should give you a rough idea how much more you'll get from it in MADVR, hopefully someone will be able to give you a better answer.

Hope you're feeling better by the way :)

[Fandangos]

Thanks, man I am.

I still need to put life in order after the couple lost days but I am much better, thanks mclingo :))

[wilhelm_flint]

Hello Doom9 Forum

I need your help. Can you clever people anwser this question:

I want to buy a new monitor. In the near future i want to start photography and start searching.
Monitors like the Eizo CS2420 ColorEdge got great Picture Quality but is it fast enough for madvr?
Any other displays you can recommend? :scared:

Thank you all.

@madvr: I really love Madvr. Fantastic job.

[mclingo]

what do you mean by fast enough?, response times are irrelevant for MADVR and MADVR refresh rate matches, sure this monitor will both 23,976 and 60hz.

[huhn]

professional devices can be to slow for proper motion displaying.

the device in his question has at least 15 ms gtg response times on paper can nearly for sure not do 23p naively so yes i would avoid this one for madVR.

[wilhelm_flint]

@huhn: Thanks for the Feedback. Any alternatives?

[huhn]

sorry nothing i actively look into. if you want a screen with 100% DCI P3 support than you have to take the trades of lower CR and bad motion handling for it a guess.

[Siso]

I'm experiencing delayed frames with image doubling NGU Sharp High on 1.78:1 tv shows and movies. Monitor resolution is 3440x1440p card is gtx 1050 ti. Is it possible that NGU Sharp High is pushing my card to the limit? Rendering times are ~26-28 ms.