16mm Film to DV

AudioVideoMaster · 12th February 2004, 03:54

I've got a short, 5 minute, B/W, 16mm film I shot and edited together for a production class last spring. I remember seeing a box device that you project the film into a plane inside the box and you use your DV cam to shoot the other screen. What is the name of those box devices?!
I can't remember it to save my life!

Also I wanted to ask if anyone has done this before? Any tips? Or is there a better way? I would like the transfer to be reaaally good! As in, I'd like to see the grain if possible. Or would this be something for a big-time $$$ scanning machine?

Thanks!

bb · 12th February 2004, 10:20

From the German forums (focused on Super8 / Normal8, but the procedure is the same):

http://home.t-online.de/home/andreas.hennek/super8.htm
http://www.heise.de/ct/02/14/126/
http://www.dvd-transfer.de/index.html
http://www.gedav.de/Deutsch/Pages/A...ProduktInfo.htm
http://www.hama.de/hama/shop.jsp?sid=t2jace1291
http://www.kreativedvd.com/kreativeDVD.html
http://www.stoneheadcut.de/
http://www.video-optik.de/glasscreen/
http://www.video-studio-immeln.de/index.html
http://www.video-kammerer.de/index.html

You may try www.babelfish.com for a translation.

bb

rfmmars · 17th February 2004, 04:41

Ok, this is what I do for a living. First you need a camera, I use a Mintron with 570 lines of resolution, but for your project, I will tell you what you need. A camcorder will do, but you must turn off ALL auto features.

Don't use one of those black boxes. Make a screen out of Hi-white color printing paper such as Epson HI-Resolution. Take a piece of flat cardboard and attach a smooth sheet of aluminim foil shiney side up.

On top of that, place the HI-RES paper sucurring with tape at the edges. This will provide you with a very fine grain screen. The next thing is the projector, a sound one 24 fps, with you hope a speed control. You can add a 600 watt light dimmer in series with one of the moter wires, but do not hook the projection lamp to it. Most 16mm projectors have lenses that needs to be sitting a distance back form the screen.

Put the camcoder on a tripod and go from there.
If you can't modify the projector, you will have bad flicker. You can use Virtualdub with Deflicker plugin or Avisynth, but in bright spots pulsing will remain.

Richard
photorecall.net

AudioVideoMaster · 17th February 2004, 05:38

"Don't use one of those black boxes"
Thanks for letting me know not to use those black boxes. I almost bought one on eBay, but waited until asked around to be sure.

What is the model number of the Mintron cameras you use?
There's so many different ones on their official site.
http://www.mintron.com

Is there any kind of distance math that is used for a specific millimeter length lens on the projector so you know how far to set the projector from the screen to get the right projected image size? Or do you just keep moving the projectors' focus around?

Thanks!

rfmmars · 17th February 2004, 06:42

This was the first day I could post with the 5 day waiting time.

My Mintron is branded as a Matrix DX-8850-WD. It cost without lens about $245.00 if I remember correctly. It has S-video out and all the other settings are set though it's computer interface. I am using a 1948 Wollensak F2.7 17mm lens which I have attached a long arm so I can adjust the iris very smoothly.

I am replacing that lens soon with a F1.4 Zoom TV lens that I took off a RCA 007 colorcamera that I paid $7.00 at a thrift store. That same but cheap copy of that lens costs about $750.00 It has a electric iris which will be more comfortable for me to use.

All of my projectors have zoom lenses, and my projected image is about 8" x 7". It's easy to do with 8mm, but 16mm the projector sits farther back. The camera is about 12 inches from the screen.

That the basic things.

I will check you site out and please check mine
Richard
www.photorecall.net

AudioVideoMaster · 27th February 2004, 19:48

I just checked out you site and like your site alot.
I didn't know Kodachrome went that low ASA 10 & 5 ratings as your pages meantions! I was like... dang!

The only thing is that I got a "404 page not found" error when I pressed some of the buttons.

I'm still working on tracking down, price comparing, some of the parts to do the transfers, so if I have some more questions I'll post again. I'm sure I'll have more.

12th February 2004, 03:54	#1 \| Link
AudioVideoMaster Creative Being Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: USA Posts: 128	16mm Film to DV I've got a short, 5 minute, B/W, 16mm film I shot and edited together for a production class last spring. I remember seeing a box device that you project the film into a plane inside the box and you use your DV cam to shoot the other screen. What is the name of those box devices?! I can't remember it to save my life! Also I wanted to ask if anyone has done this before? Any tips? Or is there a better way? I would like the transfer to be reaaally good! As in, I'd like to see the grain if possible. Or would this be something for a big-time $$$ scanning machine? Thanks!

17th February 2004, 06:42	#5 \| Link
rfmmars Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 743	16mm Film Transfer This was the first day I could post with the 5 day waiting time. My Mintron is branded as a Matrix DX-8850-WD. It cost without lens about $245.00 if I remember correctly. It has S-video out and all the other settings are set though it's computer interface. I am using a 1948 Wollensak F2.7 17mm lens which I have attached a long arm so I can adjust the iris very smoothly. I am replacing that lens soon with a F1.4 Zoom TV lens that I took off a RCA 007 colorcamera that I paid $7.00 at a thrift store. That same but cheap copy of that lens costs about $750.00 It has a electric iris which will be more comfortable for me to use. All of my projectors have zoom lenses, and my projected image is about 8" x 7". It's easy to do with 8mm, but 16mm the projector sits farther back. The camera is about 12 inches from the screen. That the basic things. I will check you site out and please check mine Richard www.photorecall.net

12th February 2004, 10:20	#2 \| Link
bb Moderator Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Germany Posts: 2,665	From the German forums (focused on Super8 / Normal8, but the procedure is the same): http://home.t-online.de/home/andreas.hennek/super8.htm http://www.heise.de/ct/02/14/126/ http://www.dvd-transfer.de/index.html http://www.gedav.de/Deutsch/Pages/A...ProduktInfo.htm http://www.hama.de/hama/shop.jsp?sid=t2jace1291 http://www.kreativedvd.com/kreativeDVD.html http://www.stoneheadcut.de/ http://www.video-optik.de/glasscreen/ http://www.video-studio-immeln.de/index.html http://www.video-kammerer.de/index.html You may try www.babelfish.com for a translation. bb

17th February 2004, 04:41	#3 \| Link
rfmmars Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 743	Ok, this is what I do for a living. First you need a camera, I use a Mintron with 570 lines of resolution, but for your project, I will tell you what you need. A camcorder will do, but you must turn off ALL auto features. Don't use one of those black boxes. Make a screen out of Hi-white color printing paper such as Epson HI-Resolution. Take a piece of flat cardboard and attach a smooth sheet of aluminim foil shiney side up. On top of that, place the HI-RES paper sucurring with tape at the edges. This will provide you with a very fine grain screen. The next thing is the projector, a sound one 24 fps, with you hope a speed control. You can add a 600 watt light dimmer in series with one of the moter wires, but do not hook the projection lamp to it. Most 16mm projectors have lenses that needs to be sitting a distance back form the screen. Put the camcoder on a tripod and go from there. If you can't modify the projector, you will have bad flicker. You can use Virtualdub with Deflicker plugin or Avisynth, but in bright spots pulsing will remain. Richard photorecall.net

17th February 2004, 05:38	#4 \| Link
AudioVideoMaster Creative Being Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: USA Posts: 128	"Don't use one of those black boxes" Thanks for letting me know not to use those black boxes. I almost bought one on eBay, but waited until asked around to be sure. What is the model number of the Mintron cameras you use? There's so many different ones on their official site. http://www.mintron.com Is there any kind of distance math that is used for a specific millimeter length lens on the projector so you know how far to set the projector from the screen to get the right projected image size? Or do you just keep moving the projectors' focus around? Thanks!

27th February 2004, 19:48	#6 \| Link
AudioVideoMaster Creative Being Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: USA Posts: 128	I just checked out you site and like your site alot. I didn't know Kodachrome went that low ASA 10 & 5 ratings as your pages meantions! I was like... dang! The only thing is that I got a "404 page not found" error when I pressed some of the buttons. I'm still working on tracking down, price comparing, some of the parts to do the transfers, so if I have some more questions I'll post again. I'm sure I'll have more.