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Old 4th January 2018, 15:37   #441  |  Link
huhn
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keep deinterlancing on.
when lavfilter is deonterlancing madVR will disable it automaticly so you can force film mode in madVR with no harm so if the source is telecine you can disable deinterlancing in lavfilter and you are good to go.
DXVA deinterlancing is currently not that good so using softwere deinterlancing from lavfilter is currently not a bad idea.
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Old 4th January 2018, 17:33   #442  |  Link
mytbyte
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Originally Posted by Audionut View Post



OLED is the next upgrade. I'm wondering if I'll need sunglasses for the HDR aspect (700+ nits).
I doubt it, the devil is in the highlights, not the whole picture
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Old 4th January 2018, 19:09   #443  |  Link
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Another question : I noticed all your profiles had deinterlacing turned off. Does it mean you do the deinterlacing with the decoder? In my case it would be MPC's internal LAV filter.
Ouch! Are they? I will need to fix that. I don't usually watch interlaced video and I recently had a source that was flagged as interlaced but wasn't so I turned it off for that. I must have forgotten to turn it back on before saving my new settings files.

Usually I do want deinterlacing set to the default settings.
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Old 13th January 2018, 10:44   #444  |  Link
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I have updated the setting.bin files.
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Old 16th January 2018, 23:03   #445  |  Link
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I have updated the setting.bin files.
I just saw that and a few days ago I was going to blast you with a lot of questions due to the fact we have the same television that has a lot of quirks, hard as hell to calibrate (you took out the 3d/cms I see), and "PC" mode is a complete mess on many levels.

I'm going to find a slide first because I think you might be shocked on how 2.4/BT.1888 crushes blacks even with +1 brit and 20 point IRE 5 luminance set high also, although I'm sure you calibrated and mess with settings non-stop on madvr/mpc and I bet you're coming from a plasma too but OLED is another beast.

With changes the .bin quite a bit it raises questions on top of questions I have with the prior .bin along with OLED/Nvidia/MadVR that I'll think about asking the best ones as I consider you along with Warner306 top of the food chain when it comes to knowledge on setting up something very complex trying to perfect the best possible settings.

Last edited by xx2000xx; 16th January 2018 at 23:06.
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Old 17th January 2018, 03:28   #446  |  Link
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I am happy to answer OLED calibration settings here or even better the Calibration Thread in General.

I still use the 3DLUTs myself, I simply removed them from the settings.bin because users couldn't save their settings without deleting or changing the entry for my display due to missing my 3DLUTs. I have found that the newest Calman is much better at creating 3DLUTs for madVR, it is very good now without a lot of tweaking needed. Of course it is pretty expensive, but it has been a relief because I was never quite satisfied with the behavior near black when using ArgyllCMS, Argyll is very good otherwise but it takes a lot more experimentation. I did find a significant improvement near black after switching to a calibrated i1d3 instead of using my i1pro2 (obvious in retrospect), and a calibration is lot faster too.

For my calibration 17 is crushed into 16 but otherwise it is very good, I am quite happy with it.

The biggest requirement I discovered is you have to defeat the forced low power mode, if the brightness doesn't change enough for 60s (or similar) the TV lowers brightness which completely messes up a calibration. I play a video on repeat behind madTPG to keep the TV awake. I also use a smallish pattern and very low brightness (OLED on 18 for ~100 cd/m^2 at 100% white) which keeps the other power limiters from kicking in.

edit: calibrating this OLED has been much easier than plasma was.
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Old 17th January 2018, 07:47   #447  |  Link
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I am happy to answer OLED calibration settings here or even better the Calibration Thread in General.

I still use the 3DLUTs myself, I simply removed them from the settings.bin because users couldn't save their settings without deleting or changing the entry for my display due to missing my 3DLUTs. I have found that the newest Calman is much better at creating 3DLUTs for madVR, it is very good now without a lot of tweaking needed. Of course it is pretty expensive, but it has been a relief because I was never quite satisfied with the behavior near black when using ArgyllCMS, Argyll is very good otherwise but it takes a lot more experimentation. I did find a significant improvement near black after switching to a calibrated i1d3 instead of using my i1pro2 (obvious in retrospect), and a calibration is lot faster too.

For my calibration 17 is crushed into 16 but otherwise it is very good, I am quite happy with it.

The biggest requirement I discovered is you have to defeat the forced low power mode, if the brightness doesn't change enough for 60s (or similar) the TV lowers brightness which completely messes up a calibration. I play a video on repeat behind madTPG to keep the TV awake. I also use a smallish pattern and very low brightness (OLED on 18 for ~100 cd/m^2 at 100% white) which keeps the other power limiters from kicking in.

edit: calibrating this OLED has been much easier than plasma was.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asmodian View Post
I am happy to answer OLED calibration settings here or even better the Calibration Thread in General.

I still use the 3DLUTs myself, I simply removed them from the settings.bin because users couldn't save their settings without deleting or changing the entry for my display due to missing my 3DLUTs. I have found that the newest Calman is much better at creating 3DLUTs for madVR, it is very good now without a lot of tweaking needed. Of course it is pretty expensive, but it has been a relief because I was never quite satisfied with the behavior near black when using ArgyllCMS, Argyll is very good otherwise but it takes a lot more experimentation. I did find a significant improvement near black after switching to a calibrated i1d3 instead of using my i1pro2 (obvious in retrospect), and a calibration is lot faster too.

For my calibration 17 is crushed into 16 but otherwise it is very good, I am quite happy with it.

The biggest requirement I discovered is you have to defeat the forced low power mode, if the brightness doesn't change enough for 60s (or similar) the TV lowers brightness which completely messes up a calibration. I play a video on repeat behind madTPG to keep the TV awake. I also use a smallish pattern and very low brightness (OLED on 18 for ~100 cd/m^2 at 100% white) which keeps the other power limiters from kicking in.

edit: calibrating this OLED has been much easier than plasma was.
I don't have any experience with calibration and always tweaked D-nice's settings in the past with my Panny's as he might be one of the best calibrators in the world but nobody is leaking his OLED settings yet.

I was going to ask what you used but a few days ago I decided that because I'm inexperienced and using Ted's calibration he recommends X-Rite i1Display Pro or the latest Calman that I think can do DV too, but we are looking at $250+ when out of the box it's pretty damn great especially on warm 2 vs the plasmas which I know that is how it's intended but it was just too brown and the blues/whites bugged me to the point where I just settled on Warm 1.

However the OLED, even on 35 OLED light which is about the point where you don't get that ABL at all unless you have a static image for 1 minute and then it'll kick in. You can disable that too if you wish as there's a thread on AVS on how to do it.

I did the test pattern to hit 16 and then checked the boxes pattern but when somebody posted this: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...l#post46798617 - it changed a lot of people's opinions that now 2.2 was the way to go because even with their increased values in bt.1886 it still crushed it and it's a bitch to calibrate correctly on 2.4 with this set. The rtings.com guy whose calibration I didn't like cause it was too dark with settings that nobody uses like 95 contrast actually nailed it on my set.

I don't have any tools and there are only a few true things you can manually do while keeping settings pretty much standard I switched back to 2.2 which I hated before and thought skin color was better at 1886 but switched to 23 OLED, 50 bright, 85 contrast, and not adjusting the 5 point scale and now after a week I'm used to it and it's better for me to have a low OLED because I'm using this as a PC monitor 24/7.

I didn't mean to turn this into a calibration deal but after reading more the past hour I'm a bit lost on the famous TV/PC conversion that may think I was doing it wrong with reading people's comments in the calibration threads which is a lot more technical than your standard threads. Although while I've been typing this short story without asking basic questions on settings I'm now more interested in the calibration side of things and even if it's $250 it's worth it until about 8 months when my tabs from FireFox burn in :-) I keep on forgetting to turn on full screen and it seems you have to baby this more than even the plasmas so I'm using about 20 techniques I've picked up over the years trying to prevent it.

What would you recommend for me to get? Calman's software is confusing and which one to get but on top of that I think you need their $600 tool on top of the software which isn't going to happen. If Cal6 is the only one that supports DV and HLG I think and probably HDR10+ while others don't then forget about it because I'm content with SDR which will be my primary as I'm not that big into Movies unless there was black disc based media that's cheap for ripping 4k, although I should probably go through my 100 blu-ray rips that I have yet to watch which most are probably trash now due to disc rot thanks to companies putting out shitty discs and at the time nobody knew about it and they were well over a dollar back then too. It might not be worth it to get anything else really unless one of the open source people will support it but I really have to do some research after I'm content with this OLED. I'm also a 100% PC guy so recommendations from other people might not apply to me unlike your suggestions.

Only Skylake here but my 970 picks up a few though Amazon, Netflix won't, or I have to d/l some shit like edge or something and Win10 LTSB is bad enough and no linux support. Then with the war coming up they are dropping HDR to HDR10+ so LG won't be able to get it but figured the PC would pick up everything so I can use my 7.1 surround so I guess I'll have to IPT most of this stuff. Anandtech just did an article about what a mess HDR on the PC is: https://www.anandtech.com/show/12171...luray-and-more

It sucks that my plasma's PSU blew up because next year's LG OLEDS will be a lot easier to calibrate it seems: https://referencehometheater.com/201...t-is-a-3d-lut/

Back to my point so I can wrap up this wall of text. This is the correct way right?

(madVR) PC levels (0-255) -> (GPU) Limited Range RGB (TV) Output as RGB 16-235

I use 4:4:4 chroma obviously but when switching to a video go to RGB Limited, make sure LG is set to low black, MadVR to default but also keep it 8 bit?

Rant over. I didn't even cover a lot of settings I'm curious about using the LG with Nvidia regarding settings on both using MadVR and your MadVR settings on top of those including some conflicting things you're using compared to th is guide: https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=259188

I'll get to them later but because my Panny blew suddenly I didn't have time to pour in the massive amount of hours of research and had to pull the trigger on BF and because my old Denon is 1080p I'm reading up on both now. Although HDMI to TV then another HDMI to the receiver works just fine and not being able to see the menu isn't a big deal because I know every single setting by heart now I've been in the market of upgrading anyways and it still seems like Denon's x3300w at minimum is the way to go. The 4000 line, even refurb from A4L is still too expensive but I need to figure out all the scaling stuff and if we're forced to use shitty smart apps then I'll have to get the new EARC to output more than DD+ instead of raw 7.1.

Last edited by xx2000xx; 17th January 2018 at 08:01.
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Old 28th January 2018, 14:21   #448  |  Link
cr0n=0sTT88
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Hi,

I have a projector JVC x500. This is a projector 4K with hdmi 1.4. Not compatible with HDR.
I have a graphic card Intel HD 4600 with hdmi 1.4. No compatible with HDR.
I use JRiver MC.

When I use the option of conversion HDR=>SDR i have a problem.

when I play a MKV 4K with Red October HQ my GPU is at 100% of load and the movie looks like a robot.
If I buy a new graphic card with more powerfull GPU is it possible solve this? GTX 1060 3GB is enough?
I have a CPU 4790K but my GPU is only a HD 4600.

thank you!!!

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Old 28th January 2018, 14:38   #449  |  Link
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Generally, 3gb is not enough for 4k.
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Old 28th January 2018, 14:45   #450  |  Link
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Generally, 3gb is not enough for 4k.
is better a GTX 1060 with 6GB to play the contents smoothly?
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Old 28th January 2018, 14:50   #451  |  Link
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my experience is that a GT 1030 with 2GB works correctly connected to a UHD TV, even with 60 fps HFR HDR sources converted in real-time to SDR for which some adjustments to the number of buffers and quality options is required
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Old 28th January 2018, 14:55   #452  |  Link
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my experience is that a GT 1030 with 2GB works correctly connected to a UHD TV, even with 60 fps HFR HDR sources converted in real-time to SDR for which some adjustments to the number of buffers and quality options is required
thank you for the information!!!!

do you have a capture of the critical configuration of madvr for solve the problem?? i can copy it and apply for me
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Old 28th January 2018, 15:11   #453  |  Link
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Can't check it now, but generally (by heart) CPU and GPU queue size: set to 8 or less, trade quality for performance: everything checked, scaling: set to DXVA (not sure if it has any effect at all, perhaps on chroma)...but if you're intending to try that on the integral HD graphics, think it's too weak and too old for anything
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Old 28th January 2018, 17:52   #454  |  Link
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trade quality for performance: everything checked
I strongly recommend against using ALL the trade quality for performance options! Use the default ones (everything from the top down to "scale chroma separately, if it saves performance") but the others can cause issues.
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Old 28th January 2018, 19:37   #455  |  Link
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this configuration is no good because the image moves like a robot.
do you have any tutorial for how to configure all the parameters?

If mdvr it works better with a good gpu finally i will buy a new graphic card.
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Old 28th January 2018, 20:14   #456  |  Link
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This forum is a tutorial... You can try one thing: for HDR disable "preserve hue", maybe also "compress highlights"...but i think your GPU is generally the bottleneck, it doesn't have it's own memory, it shares (probably DDR3) memory with rest of the system...your D3D usage is maxing out...how is playback when you disable MadVR? Never mind if the picture is washed out.

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Old 28th January 2018, 20:23   #457  |  Link
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when i use red october standard, madvr disappear of the menu of jriver.
when this happens, the reproduction is fluid but the image quality is inferior. I will definitely have to buy a new graphics card. It does not make sense to search among thousands of options.

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Old 28th January 2018, 20:41   #458  |  Link
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Yes, do get a new video card, although I think you'd be best off with a GTX 1050Ti 4GB unless you are playing modern games (somehow I doubt you do with the HD4600)
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Old 28th January 2018, 20:43   #459  |  Link
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thanks, sir. I am not a gamer. for that reason I only have my integrated card. AMD and nVidia are similar? nVidia is better?

Last edited by cr0n=0sTT88; 28th January 2018 at 21:48.
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Old 28th January 2018, 21:33   #460  |  Link
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Right now Nvidia is better, NGU runs unusually slowly on Polaris (AMD's 480/580). Also the 480 and 580 are good for mining so they are often hard to find right now. The 1050 Ti is a great card for madVR but there are probably a few options you can change for better performance with madVR. HDR -> SDR in high quality is relatively difficult so you need change to low quality mode with something like an HD4600:
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