What brand of CD-R do you use?

[OvERaCiD23]

I'm just curious which brand of CD-R everyone here uses. I've read up on it before, and decided to stick with Imation. I've yet to have a disc fall apart or give me troubles (1.5 years of use). Also, the price can't be beat - once a month, rebates for Imation CD-Rs come out and you can get a 50-stack for ~$3. I like to stock up. =)

[SansGrip]

OvERaCiD23: I'm just curious which brand of CD-R everyone here uses.

I use whatever my local Radio Shack has in stock, which usually means either Pine or Memorex. I've yet to have any problems that I've traced to the media itself, but *did* have problems (random glitches) that I thought was media-related when I was burning VCDs on-the-fly from MPEGs using Nero. When converted to BIN/CUE and burned with CDRWIN the problem disappeared, even with the same batch of CD-Rs.

[kxy]

I only use FujiFilm, as long as it is from Taiyo Yuden.

[Deepa DvD]

I use Sony for Cd-r and Memorex for cd-rw. There's a pretty cool thing about memorex cd-rw's - my old Sony DVD player can not play any brand cd-r's or cd-rw's, but it play's Memorex's Cd-rw's. And it does play DVD-Rs, but no DVD-RW's. :)



(Getting off subject here, hope you don't mind) ...it doesen't matter that much anymore, coz I got a new settop. But I had some projects before for clients in which they had a video-cd on a cd-r (wedding,etc.) and it didn't play on their settop, so all I did was a disc-to-disc copy used a Memorex Cd-rw and it perfecty played on their settop.

[smiller667]

I try to use quality cd-rs produced by companies like Tayo Yuden, Mitsui or Kodak ... as kxy already pointed out, the "brand name" is pretty much irrelevant as it is hardly ever related to the manufacturer of the CD-R (or -RW) - eg I can buy Philips here and get either crappy Ritek or excellent Mitsui quality ... better check first before you decide to stock up.
Also: it is well known that cd-rw or certain brands of cd-r can be more compatible than cd-r if you have to deal with outdated hardware (like esp. older Sony or Shinco players). Again, check before you buy in large quantity.

[DJ Bobo]

I always use Philips CD-Rs.

[Justinus]

I'm using 80min TDK at the moment.

[WorldBook]

CD's here are expensive. I pay $30 for 100 discs----the cheapest in my city. The brand I believe is "Mr. Platinum" Tried 200 discs, 2 corrupt.

[Dagon]

Supposedly, there is only a handful of factories, all the brands do is slap their name on.

Rumor is, the best CD's are the Japanese made ones. Taiyo Yuden I think, is the factory name or manufacturing company.

[OvERaCiD23]

Now I have a question, where do I find out which factory/company produced the CD?

[Justinus]

Go here (http://www.cdmediaworld.com/hardware/cdrom/cd_cdr_info_abc.shtml). Click at the brand name of each CD to see more detail including factory ;)

[Teegedeck]

I used to buy only Kodak's silver-gold ones but have switched to Traxdata's silver, 40x certified. Can't be picky anymore... Yes, they're "crappy" Ritek, but hey; eac says they use Phtalocyanine type 7, nothing wrong with that. Ritek is a giant and perhaps they're just improving. Seem to work very, very nicely.

[Slogra]

I'm using non-branded discs. According to Nero infotool it is Prodisc (?).

[Mac Sidewinder]

I'm another TDK user. Simply since they are the cheapest around here.
No problems yet with over 400 used.

Mac

[manono]

Hi-

...where do I find out which factory/company produced the CD?

CDR Identifier (http://www.gum.de/it/download/english.htm)

[Sphinx No. 4]

I have been using Memorex CD-R 80 for some time now and I haven't had any problems with them.

Well, perhaps once… but unfortunately I can't blame the media for that one…

:D

[Dagon]

Quick way is look at the packaging, made in japan vs made in taiwan

[Justinus]

@Dagon
And what would that mean? :confused:

[jbk]

Re TDK...

I'm a long time TDK user and have had excellent results - no problems and no coasters. In my area they are not the "low cost" option they apparently are for some of you. In my ignorance, I was paying a bit more for what I assumed was a "high quality" product. Just for grins today I ran some of my TDK blanks through CDR Identifier and discovered that the majority of them were manufactured by CMC Magnetics and a couple of spindles come from Ritek. This might be old news to most of you, but it was a big surprise to me. I won't be purchasing TDK any longer. Today I bought a couple of spindles of PNY branded CD-Rs that CDR Identifier says were also manufactered by CMC Magnetics. At roughly 2/3s the cost, it seems that in the PNY media I have exactly the same stuff as I was getting from TDK.

I'm assuming that all the media from a manufacturer (using the same dye, of course) is essentially the same, differing only in labeling. Any thoughts on this?

JBK

[Dagon]

Originally posted by Justinus
@Dagon
And what would that mean? :confused:

If you look at most any brand's packaging, you'll see in little text either made taiwan or made in japan. The Taiyo Yuden's are from japan. Kinda of a quick and dirty method of choosing your CD-R's :p

[Justinus]

So, which country can manufacture better CD-R quality? Japan? Can you give me a list if there're more than those 2 countries you previously mentioned? :D

[xox]

@justinus:
this link: http://cdfreaks.com/document.php3?Doc=91 will help you deciding the best media to use.

[xox]

@justinus:
this link: http://cdfreaks.com/document.php3?Doc=91 will help you deciding the best media to use.

[UGAthecat]

I have always used the "GQ" or 'Great Quality' brand from Fry's Electronics. They are almost always the cheapest cds in the store, and in more than 3 years I have never had a bad disc using this brand. The only bad discs i've ever come accross were CompUSA branded, and a couple of name brand discs.
From my experience and the experience of friends that have been burning cds for as long or longer than me, the ONLY discs that consistently have problems are discs that have paint on them from the MFG. Discs that have absolutely nothing on the back side, or just simple etching/outline for branding usually work best.

[Dagon]

Originally posted by UGAthecat
I have always used the "GQ" or 'Great Quality' brand from Fry's Electronics.


You like those???:scared:

I was stupid and bought their CD-RW's. Half of the stack was bad...

[stormy1777]

To me the most important thing is the actual capacity. As you know it varies by manufacturer... I already bought several 100 packs of 80min/700MB but they only hold 699MB or 700MB and not 703MB like others do.. This means that a lot of editing has to take place for dld movies..

Is there a list of actual capacity, how can I tell by looking at a website or walking to a store if the CD is 699MB or 703MB which for me is a very BIG deal (saves time of cutting film). The only way I know of is to use "cdr identifier" or nero (media info) but one can't do that in the store, or ask a sales rep to do it for you...

Can someone give a link to a known 100Pk with 703MB capacity?

ideas?

Stormy

[Justinus]

Go here (http://www.cdmediaworld.com/hardware/cdrom/cd_cdr_info_fs.shtml#CD-R%20Media%20List%20-%20Sorted%20by%20CD-R%20Capacity). I don't think it's a complete list but it may give you some idea about the capacity of each brand.

[killingspree]

... mean now? according to cdr identifier the cdrs (both brands one i by in a discount stores but with cases the other wones in 25 cd spindels) were produced by:

Prodisc technology Inc
recording layer: Dye (short strategy)

good or bad?? i didn't have any problems up to now!!

just wanted to know other people's views!

in austria and i believe also in germany they are sold as Silvercircle and Tevion CDrs

regards
steVe

EDIT: oh yea forgot my 'USA Imported' CD RWs:
company: Princo Co.

[masken]

Kodak Ultima 80 all the way ;)

It's the only brand (me knowingly) that give you 100 years warranty.

They're a bit more expensive, but on the other hand I only burn stuff I really want to save.

Some cheaper brands (FujiFilm for example) didn't even last 2 years in an enviromental test... :rolleyes:

[tumbar]

Dear great, great, great, great, great grandkids,

Enclosed please find two disks with the word "kodac" embedded on them.

This is the top of a storage device we called "cd disks". Try to find a player which will play these. One disk has pictures both stills and moving on it of me and great great great great grandma tumbar on it. The other has some "tunes" me and great great great great grandma used to bang our heads too.

regards to all, great great great great grandpa tumbar

PS. now you know where you got your "good looks" from :D

[poopity poop]

Imation are the only discs stable enough to produce an SVCD without having to burn it at liek 4x. That has been my contention, and I walsys buy Imation no matter what the cost

[theReal]

only one word: Mitsui :)

I usually use the SG Ultras or Golden Dyes from Mitsui, not the Gold-Gold (because they are just too expensive).

I agree that Kodak and Tayo Yuden are the same quality as Mitsui, but Kodak has quit producing CDRs recently and Tayo Yuden are harder to identify than Mitsui.

EDIT: I wanted to add that I'm using Mitsui only since I've had so many other CDRs crap out after only 2, 3 or 4 years. A CD can look good and be perfect now - but you never know what it will be like in 5 years...

I don't care if my CDRs will still be good in 100 years (or 200, like Mitsui promises for their Gold-Gold), but I'd like to use them in 5 years and I will probably keep some of them for 10 years or more. And I really don't think that any CDR other than Kodak, Mitsui or Tayo Yuden will make it that long...

[wmansir]

Does anyone have a link to one of those sites that list weekly CDR deals in the US? You know like compusa, bestbuy ect.

[abo_alkeem]

I used Imation, Memorex, LG, SunPower, SunPower black and SmartBuy.

Imation and Memorex ware good and they are my standard. Although SunPower has capacity of 750 MB but I realy hate it because it gets damaged easily with scratches. In my opinion LG was the best. Now I am using Princo 48x because it is the cheapest one and it is ok.

[stormy1777]

Costco has TDK, 703MB after mailin rebate $20. good deal.. that's what I'm using.. the 699MB I'm saving for smaller files and it works out great!

[delboy180459]

hi all...i have a (cyberdrv cw058d cd-r/rw), which i inherited about a month ago...and so far no probs...

also im new 2 the forums so forgive me if i make a boo boo or 2...

bye 4 now..

del..

[WorldBook]

All my cheap cd's are manufactured by postech. I did a search for it, I think they are made in Korea? Not many reviews on them, but they seem to be okay....so far :D Anyone else use these cd's? I'd like to know your experience.

[NeWcS]

Originally posted by wmansir
Does anyone have a link to one of those sites that list weekly CDR deals in the US? You know like compusa, bestbuy ect.

Try here: http://club.cdfreaks.com/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=58
http://www.hotdealsclub.com/
http://www.slickdeals.net/

As far as what cdr i use, I use the cheapest brick of 100 i can find. Have never had one single problem.

[Fantasma]

I currently use Imation 80 minutes CDs, manufactured in Taiwan, they have NEVER given me any problems. I also use Sony 80 minutes which are also manufactured in Taiwan with zero errors so far.

In addition to that, recently I have been purchasing Verbatin CD-R 80 Minutes Datalife Plus (Super Azo Blue) made in mexico and incredibly cheap in my country, these are of good quality too.

[wmansir]

@NeWcS
Thanks for the links. I already used a deal from one of those sites.

@all

Just a general note about problems with CDR media. I have never encountered a major problem (as in inherent in the type/brand of media, as opposed to a problem with an individual disc) when burning data. However, once I moved from divx to SVCD I found that some cheap discs always produce errors. It didn't matter if I used my Plextor or Yamaha burner, or what speed I burned at (even tried 1x) the discs always contained errors when reading (on my standalone, either writer, or a toshiba DVD-ROM). This is because the error correction isn't as good with SVCDS (hence the 800mb capacity vs 700MB for data) so defects are more apparent.

[theReal]

I have never encountered a major problem (as in inherent in the type/brand of media, as opposed to a problem with an individual disc) when burning dataThat is what makes it so difficult to see if a cdr is good or not. At the moment of burning, 99% are great - but compare again in 3-5 years and you will notice a big difference...

[aLu]

I can use SAST's 870 MB (99min) CD-R's on my Ricoh MP 7083A. Most Ricoh burners support RAW write and overburning, but it's difficult to find oversized media it recognizes. If you have a Ricoh burner, this is worth a try.

[BluDChyLD]

First off, I don't think brand names are reliable to go by. Overtime cd-r companies tend to change their dye manufacturer. These are the people who count when it comes to quality, not the people who actually makes the cds.

Download CD-R Identifier and see who manufactures the cds you use. Follow this link for a small guide and whos good and whos not -

http://www.cdfreaks.com/document.php3?Doc=51

If you can't find yours there visit their forum and you should be able to get something :)

BluDChyLD

[theReal]

Overtime cd-r companies tend to change their dye manufacturer.That's why you can only trust Mitsui (who is not only vendor but also manufacturer - they are holding the patent for the phtalocyanine dye) and Tayo Yuden (who are not selling cds under their name but only produce them - which makes them harder to identify)

[BluDChyLD]

I usually use traxdata cds, as I get them cheap and have had no trouble.

I've test a few and 90% of them are either prodisc or ritek. Luckily these are both good brands (although ritek did have a bad rep).

The annoying thing about cd-r media is you can only see how reliable they are as time goes by. I've never had problem burning to nearly any cd but after a few months some of the cheap ones don't read :mad: This is really annoying as most of my cds are made for archive purposes and are hard to replace...

[markrb]

I try to stick with discs made by Taiyo Yuden.
Even within the same brand you can have multiple manufacturers.
TDK and Memorex both use several and Taiyo Yuden is one of them. If you look at these brands and see where they are made as long as they say Made in Japan you can be pretty sure they are Taiyo Yuden's.
Also Taiyo Yuden's tend to have a little black cap on the top holding the clear plastic spindle cover, but not always.

Other then that my second choice is made in Taiwan and last and definately least is made in Mexico.

I have been lucky that I have never run into a bunch of bad discs regardless of where they are made, but I like to hedge my bets with better quality to start.

Mark

[WorldBook]

Thanks for the link to the cdrfreaks forum

Here's what I divulged about Postech. They are cheap and made in Taiwan (that's what I was expecting :D). Generally low to "middle" quality, but nothing horribly wrong with them and no harsh user complaints. I guess time will tell whether these cd's were right for archival purposes.

[killingspree]

can someone please tell me some good cdr deals for the next week in the US. but please only those from not online stores since there wont be any time to order online!

thanks a lot
steVe

[markrb]

For deals go to www.anandtech.com and go to the forums. In particular the hot deals forum.
There is also www.jumpondeals.com , www.xpbargains.com and a whole bunch of others.
Do a google search for all kinds of others.

Mark

[killingspree]

first thanks for the links...
i've found a nice deal at staples! i guess it is recommendable for everybody: sony cdr 50 spindle $4.94 after mail in rebate even without the rebate it's a fairly good deal: $13.94

i've also found a nice deal at amazon.de
Memorex Professional cdr 50 spindle: € 15.99 (very very cheap for european standards!! )

does anybody have any bad/ghood experience with these memorex cdr? haven't used them before!

regards
steVe