\AX
19th August 2002, 05:31
this is a stretch but i work industrial and the current glue on cd labels is atbest cheap. Now on the other hand if you have been cheaper but wiser in ways on making your own cd labels out of plain sheets of glossy paper (100pcs for 25usd), circle cutter with replacement blades (6-8usd), and 3M Hi-Tack 76 you would know the adhesive is specificly designed to not interfere with either bonding surface's
what i don't know about dvd-r is it the glue that is killing the performance or just the plain simple fact of putting something on top of the disc???
I due know the following that the old Hi-Tack 76, which you cant buy no more i dont believe due to the upgrade to Super 77 i could be wrong though), is far less damaging than the unknown glue adhesive that is on cd labels. I have yet to been able to find the ingredients on this glue...as for the 3M it's right on the back in English and Spanish.
Super 77 i just bought
ixnay's on the 77 vs the 76
*about 35% longer drying time. I tested the 77 on non-stick cooking wrap. Took around 9 hours to dry. the 76 took about 6. I know it's along time but what you expect it's not supposed to stick at all if you read the box.
*the spray module. its alot more powerfull this time and seems to have a wider range.
*the cost. Super 77 cost about 2-3usd more depending on where purchased.
Super 90 vs the 77 (im leaving out Hi-Tack 76 due to it's inferority)
well there is only couple of ixnay's here
*cost 2-3 dollars more per can
*dry's non-stick wrap in about a hour longer
now if you ever used this stuff to put up wall paper, install instalation, or bond plactic's you would know this stuff is now joke. i used the 90 at work every now and then to bond installation to window frames, reseal wall paper and zhit like that. this stuff is probably, disregarding the name of 90 vs 77, about 2X stronger. the name makes it out to be about 13 better but its way better.
the can of 77 i got bonds cdlabeld to cd's enough to handle in about 45mins. now the 90 does it in about 20. also the 90 is designed for poly* plastics, corrosion materials, and much much more. Overall it's going to make a much strong bond between the label and cd and provide way more reinforcment to the cd than a regular cd label.
*****don't read this part and just jump down to the next *** line if you never messed with MMA monomer's, heat primers, or catalyst chemicals*****
i say don't read this because unless you have delt in these chemicals you wouldnt understand the bond...this is a alt. to bonding which is dangerous to your skin but provide's a complete different aproach to bonging.
Well i was a nail technician (did manicure's, pedicure's and art. nails) for almost 3 years. our salon was at the very least "wild". anything went from hard liquir to letting real monkey's climg the joint. i decided one day being in this free enviroment to test our computer we had and our yamahaa scsi cd writer by applying Liquid MMA Liquid Monomer(this is the stuff they patch boats and fill the cavities in your teeth with...extremely hard and very light) as usual as a catalyst to the stronger Rose Scuplture Acrylic powder. Here's the tricky part. being monomer will melt plastics and if let make 2nd degree burns on your skin i had to be careful how it was applied.
firs i took the cheapest cd i could find, one of those silver/silver's out of a 500pc order and taped the bottom/writing side off around the edges about to the 640mbs mark so nothing would hit this aread to inteffer with the disc once writing
that took about 45sec's and i then stuck it flat down on a empty jewel case so the top was facing. Then i took a hairdrier apart, disabled the heater so all it did was just blow, then attatched a napkin roll cone to the end and placed a filter from hq in the end. I wound up with a blowing powder machine similar to the kind(not nearly as neat or powerfull as the kind you patch boat holes with...if you ever done that you would know that tool).
then blew the bowder onto the cd from a distance being i tried it about 2 feet away the first time and it wen everywhere. after that i then applied the liquid monomer with a...uh i think they call it a spritzer or something. A hair stylus would know the name because it's what they spray water on your head to moisten your hair. I call it a spritzer/sprayer.
After spritzing the powder the catalyst took effect immediately of course. I then took the other piece of the jewel case, push down on the cd to smoothen out the catylst quickly and free hand put the label on.
ok the label was on straight, the catalyst had about 5 min's under the UV light to harden alittle quicker (like 2% faster than a normal light bulb...don't let them fool you a UV light to harden nail polish is just a "classy" or "sylish" thing to have. in fact if you use a 100wat light bulb you pick up at K-mart or whatever it will actually setup faster than uv and reduce the risk of the topcoat chipping by about 20%)
cd is cooked and done. i have in my hand a cd that looks like it was made with a cd labeling kid but is VASTLY superiour on strength and since the powder let the monomer sink through to touch the top of the cd i had 0% damage to the top being it setup in the 1st stage of catalyst.
Time to test what it can due.
1. first i burned a full audio track...worked flawlessly.
2. take it outside with the razor scooter, law it label side down and jump, powerslide and land on it. No damage done.
3. tape it to the back wall and shoot a bb gun with 800fps velocity. Deflected but left pits on just the acrylic. Successfully repelled one bb at 800fps 10 feet away.(wouldnt of did more than 2 more though)
4. fly it like a chinese star. At this point i dont recommend if you due this to try this. Since the acrylic adds just alittle more wieght to the top of the disc is now floats like a frisbie....so you have to chase it down.
5. the final test was not intentional but was the most suprising. it was raining on a hot summer morning around 9 am so i left the windows up before work and left them up all day until 9pm (12hr shift's is what sux about a nail tech's life the most). Getting back in the car i was irate to see 2 cd's with .mp3's on my dash had warped to hell and back and could never be used again. What i didnt realize until the next day is that when i pulled all the cds off the dash the "enhanced" audio cd was still flat. The next day it dawned on me, i went and grabbed it and still played fine.
**************************************************************
To sum up these bond's do not cause exterior damage and are far less expensive than the cd labels. Only ? is will this work on my dvd's after i burn one out next week or not??
for now im going to use up this Super 77 and then get Super 90. Being ive only used a actual store bought label once and find it about 5x as expensive each, more damaging, requires a perfect print out on the cd label. Although it's way quicker...i guess, this is what i know and use quickly. Ten labels takes 10 mins to apply. I know 10 real cd labels you could due in like 1-2mins but this way I know what i get everytime.
Super 90 is choice...is it the chemical bond or just the fact of something on top of the cd.?.?.?
what i don't know about dvd-r is it the glue that is killing the performance or just the plain simple fact of putting something on top of the disc???
I due know the following that the old Hi-Tack 76, which you cant buy no more i dont believe due to the upgrade to Super 77 i could be wrong though), is far less damaging than the unknown glue adhesive that is on cd labels. I have yet to been able to find the ingredients on this glue...as for the 3M it's right on the back in English and Spanish.
Super 77 i just bought
ixnay's on the 77 vs the 76
*about 35% longer drying time. I tested the 77 on non-stick cooking wrap. Took around 9 hours to dry. the 76 took about 6. I know it's along time but what you expect it's not supposed to stick at all if you read the box.
*the spray module. its alot more powerfull this time and seems to have a wider range.
*the cost. Super 77 cost about 2-3usd more depending on where purchased.
Super 90 vs the 77 (im leaving out Hi-Tack 76 due to it's inferority)
well there is only couple of ixnay's here
*cost 2-3 dollars more per can
*dry's non-stick wrap in about a hour longer
now if you ever used this stuff to put up wall paper, install instalation, or bond plactic's you would know this stuff is now joke. i used the 90 at work every now and then to bond installation to window frames, reseal wall paper and zhit like that. this stuff is probably, disregarding the name of 90 vs 77, about 2X stronger. the name makes it out to be about 13 better but its way better.
the can of 77 i got bonds cdlabeld to cd's enough to handle in about 45mins. now the 90 does it in about 20. also the 90 is designed for poly* plastics, corrosion materials, and much much more. Overall it's going to make a much strong bond between the label and cd and provide way more reinforcment to the cd than a regular cd label.
*****don't read this part and just jump down to the next *** line if you never messed with MMA monomer's, heat primers, or catalyst chemicals*****
i say don't read this because unless you have delt in these chemicals you wouldnt understand the bond...this is a alt. to bonding which is dangerous to your skin but provide's a complete different aproach to bonging.
Well i was a nail technician (did manicure's, pedicure's and art. nails) for almost 3 years. our salon was at the very least "wild". anything went from hard liquir to letting real monkey's climg the joint. i decided one day being in this free enviroment to test our computer we had and our yamahaa scsi cd writer by applying Liquid MMA Liquid Monomer(this is the stuff they patch boats and fill the cavities in your teeth with...extremely hard and very light) as usual as a catalyst to the stronger Rose Scuplture Acrylic powder. Here's the tricky part. being monomer will melt plastics and if let make 2nd degree burns on your skin i had to be careful how it was applied.
firs i took the cheapest cd i could find, one of those silver/silver's out of a 500pc order and taped the bottom/writing side off around the edges about to the 640mbs mark so nothing would hit this aread to inteffer with the disc once writing
that took about 45sec's and i then stuck it flat down on a empty jewel case so the top was facing. Then i took a hairdrier apart, disabled the heater so all it did was just blow, then attatched a napkin roll cone to the end and placed a filter from hq in the end. I wound up with a blowing powder machine similar to the kind(not nearly as neat or powerfull as the kind you patch boat holes with...if you ever done that you would know that tool).
then blew the bowder onto the cd from a distance being i tried it about 2 feet away the first time and it wen everywhere. after that i then applied the liquid monomer with a...uh i think they call it a spritzer or something. A hair stylus would know the name because it's what they spray water on your head to moisten your hair. I call it a spritzer/sprayer.
After spritzing the powder the catalyst took effect immediately of course. I then took the other piece of the jewel case, push down on the cd to smoothen out the catylst quickly and free hand put the label on.
ok the label was on straight, the catalyst had about 5 min's under the UV light to harden alittle quicker (like 2% faster than a normal light bulb...don't let them fool you a UV light to harden nail polish is just a "classy" or "sylish" thing to have. in fact if you use a 100wat light bulb you pick up at K-mart or whatever it will actually setup faster than uv and reduce the risk of the topcoat chipping by about 20%)
cd is cooked and done. i have in my hand a cd that looks like it was made with a cd labeling kid but is VASTLY superiour on strength and since the powder let the monomer sink through to touch the top of the cd i had 0% damage to the top being it setup in the 1st stage of catalyst.
Time to test what it can due.
1. first i burned a full audio track...worked flawlessly.
2. take it outside with the razor scooter, law it label side down and jump, powerslide and land on it. No damage done.
3. tape it to the back wall and shoot a bb gun with 800fps velocity. Deflected but left pits on just the acrylic. Successfully repelled one bb at 800fps 10 feet away.(wouldnt of did more than 2 more though)
4. fly it like a chinese star. At this point i dont recommend if you due this to try this. Since the acrylic adds just alittle more wieght to the top of the disc is now floats like a frisbie....so you have to chase it down.
5. the final test was not intentional but was the most suprising. it was raining on a hot summer morning around 9 am so i left the windows up before work and left them up all day until 9pm (12hr shift's is what sux about a nail tech's life the most). Getting back in the car i was irate to see 2 cd's with .mp3's on my dash had warped to hell and back and could never be used again. What i didnt realize until the next day is that when i pulled all the cds off the dash the "enhanced" audio cd was still flat. The next day it dawned on me, i went and grabbed it and still played fine.
**************************************************************
To sum up these bond's do not cause exterior damage and are far less expensive than the cd labels. Only ? is will this work on my dvd's after i burn one out next week or not??
for now im going to use up this Super 77 and then get Super 90. Being ive only used a actual store bought label once and find it about 5x as expensive each, more damaging, requires a perfect print out on the cd label. Although it's way quicker...i guess, this is what i know and use quickly. Ten labels takes 10 mins to apply. I know 10 real cd labels you could due in like 1-2mins but this way I know what i get everytime.
Super 90 is choice...is it the chemical bond or just the fact of something on top of the cd.?.?.?