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10th September 2019, 13:53 | #1321 | Link |
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I have a collection of about 8-15 8mm reels here my ma left me after she passed away.
Having seen the examples at the start of this thread, it feels like it would be an injustice to just hand the reels to any schmo for $10 a reel and having them convert them. I did some reading this evening on a product called a Wolverine Pro, however it sounds like it rips at 20fps, not the original 16 or 18fps. So I guess my question is, what's the best format to rip these films, so ensure I can clean them up in some capacity? Is 1080p enough (Wolverine Pro) - should I rip at some kind of 'literal' frame rate (actually 16 / 18 fps, or even 60fps somehow?) I'd hate to have half blurry frames or something that can't be cleaned up. Also, it sounds like some scanning tools 'zoom in' the film frame too close, losing some of the details in the image. I see several purists mentioning ripping the films twice, once zoomed in for the actual action and once zoomed right out allowing you to even see the film holes on the side. What are peoples thoughts and to the op, thanks for the excellent scripts, I'm not in a position to use them yet but the results you seem to have achieved are well well impressive. |
11th September 2019, 15:09 | #1322 | Link | |||
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I capture at 1392x1032 with my machine vision camera. But the quality from the digital transfer is much more important than the size. Quote:
Then play speed does not matter and can be easily changed afterwards. Fred.
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About 8mm film: http://www.super-8.be Film Transfer Tutorial and example clips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4QBsWXKuV8 More Example clips: http://www.vimeo.com/user678523/videos/sort:newest Last edited by videoFred; 11th September 2019 at 15:12. |
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11th September 2019, 16:14 | #1323 | Link |
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To add and clarify to two important things VideoFred said:
1. The device must be "frame accurate" which means you get exactly one frame of film on each frame of video, without blends of adjacent frames (like you get if you just point a video camera at a movie screen), and without any flickering from a projector shutter being closed. I quickly skimmed the Woverine literature, and it does look like it is frame accurate. 2. As Fred said, you can set the speed of the playback after the capture. This is like speeding up or slowing down a movie projector: the same exact frames are shown, but they are just projected at a faster or slower speed. However, there are target speeds that should give you a result which gives you motion that is the same speed as the real-life event that was filmed. Super 8 film is always 18 fps. Sound 16mm is always 24 fps. Really old film can be any frame rate because the camera was either hand-cranked, or it used a wind-up mechanism that was often not very accurate. Having said that, most 16mm and 8mm silent film was shot at a speed around 16 fps, so that is always a good starting point. You will find that some amateur movie cameras had a "film saver" speed which would slow down the film to 10 fps or slower. You just have to look at the result and decide whether you need to speed it up or slow it down. BTW, your Wolverine apparently stores the captured movie in h.264 MP4 format. This is OK if you are just going to capture and view, but if you plan to edit the film, this "delivery format" is most definitely not the ideal. It usually doesn't play as smoothly on your NLE timeline as a "capture format," and it also will tend to introduce additional digital artifacts by the time you are finished with your project. This isn't a huge deal, because the artifacts will probably be fairly small (depending on how much compression the Wolverine uses), but it is most definitely not professional and not ideal. I also agree with VideoFred that you don't need to capture or edit in full HD for 8mm film, and probably not Super 8 either. Even 16mm film can be captured at less than full HD with very little degradation. I had a chance to test this when some 1934 16mm film I had transferred was licensed to the Smithsonian Channel. They wanted to have the transfer re-done by a "Hollywood" transfer house, using a professional Spirit transfer system. I had the transfer house send the transfer to me before I sent it to the Smithsonian Channel. As I expected, their transfer, which was delivered in 1920x1080 ProRes, did a little better job on shadows than my projector/camcorder system (it was very contrasty German film stock), but the sharpness and increase in detail, while most definitely evident, was not strikingly better. It was a matter of 10-20% better (I'm trying to put my evaluation into numbers), not twice as good, or four times as good, which is how much more resolution 1920x1080 is compared to my 720x480 (non-square pixel) transfers. Last edited by johnmeyer; 11th September 2019 at 16:18. Reason: typos |
25th October 2019, 23:29 | #1324 | Link |
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Hi, I have VirtualDub2_43803 and AviSynth v2.6 Official installed.
I am attempting to apply Video Fred's Script (01_A_Film_Restoring_Frame_Interpolation) and save the result. I am new to this process of using VD & AviSth and to apply a scripts. Not sure how to go about saving only the output frame as "Save Video" in VirtualDub saves both the original and result1. I have read a large portion of this forum and only found one reference to saving by Patrick "Quote - Where is the modified clip stored?" but the reply by Video Fred is not detailed except partly to say "you must save the output somewhere" and am not sure if Patrick had the problem of it saving both windows. Example image attached. https://www.dropbox.com/s/xznvu9oyyu...image.jpg?dl=0 Hoping you can help, or point me to an explanation of how to. Thanks and regards - Bruce Last edited by bruce356; 25th October 2019 at 23:35. |
26th October 2019, 10:17 | #1326 | Link |
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There is no 64 bit AvsRecursion.dll.
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Groucho's Avisynth Stuff |
26th October 2019, 10:54 | #1327 | Link |
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There dont seem to be an x64 libsndfile-1.dll either.
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I sometimes post sober. StainlessS@MediaFire ::: AND/OR ::: StainlessS@SendSpace "Some infinities are bigger than other infinities", but how many of them are infinitely bigger ??? |
26th October 2019, 12:07 | #1328 | Link | ||||
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Both the original and result1 If you want only the result1 (autolevels, autowhite) you must change at the begining: Quote:
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BeHappy, AviSynth audio transcoder. |
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26th October 2019, 14:00 | #1330 | Link |
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Thanks StvG
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I sometimes post sober. StainlessS@MediaFire ::: AND/OR ::: StainlessS@SendSpace "Some infinities are bigger than other infinities", but how many of them are infinitely bigger ??? |
27th October 2019, 00:26 | #1331 | Link | |
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Regards - Bruce |
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29th October 2019, 10:55 | #1332 | Link | |
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Quote:
http://web.archive.org/web/200710171.../AvsRecursion/ |
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29th October 2019, 11:39 | #1333 | Link | |
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Quote:
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Groucho's Avisynth Stuff |
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29th October 2019, 14:50 | #1334 | Link |
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No idea if these still have AvsRecursion requirement, but Google search "AvsRecursion site:avisynth.nl" :- https://www.google.com/search?source...4dUDCAc&uact=5
brings up AnimeIVTC and DeFlicker as well as RemoveGrain. EDIT: I think Kassandro dll's that require AvsRecusion will send an "AvsRecusion.dll Not found" type message to DebugView window(Google), but still work ok (but slower) without it.
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I sometimes post sober. StainlessS@MediaFire ::: AND/OR ::: StainlessS@SendSpace "Some infinities are bigger than other infinities", but how many of them are infinitely bigger ??? Last edited by StainlessS; 29th October 2019 at 14:55. |
31st October 2019, 12:00 | #1335 | Link | |
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6th December 2019, 11:32 | #1337 | Link |
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DIY frame by frame scanner
Hello,
Not exactly the subject of this thread on the excellent videofred scripts that I use for a long time but I think that may interest those who are asking the question of building a DIY frame by frame scanner. You can find many projects on this subject with very different solutions and all sorts of interesting ideas. I would like to introduce mine using a PI camera and a modified projector controlled by a Raspberry PI. I specifically studied the following aspects: - Use and calibration of the PI camera with a non-stock lens - Comparison of PI cameras V1 and V2 - Adaptation of the projector and lighting - Python programming of a client-server application for controlling a stepper motor and the camera. - Improving the dynamics of the image with an HDR technique Code and documentation (In french, Google translate is your best friend): https://github.com/dgalland/yart Dominique |
6th January 2020, 15:19 | #1338 | Link |
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Hello!
Dont know if it's correct thread. I would like to upgrade my camcorder, which i use to capture 8mm films to machine vision camera I already have a c-mount obectiv, but have no clue what camera to choose Could someone please give some links to cameras with different cost Thanks Max |
7th January 2020, 18:31 | #1339 | Link | |
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Quote:
https://vimeo.com/user678523/about I don't have time to search, but I think there is a page where he describes quite a bit about his equipment and how he configured it. As for the camcorder, you want HD (although SD is actually enough for most 8mm and Super 8 work). Ideally you want to be able to capture uncompressed, something that most low-end camcorders don't allow. Last edited by johnmeyer; 7th January 2020 at 18:31. Reason: typo |
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8th January 2020, 08:11 | #1340 | Link | |
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