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21st February 2017, 17:33 | #981 | Link | |
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Second video down on in the right column, its a split screen comparison. |
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21st February 2017, 21:18 | #983 | Link |
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Very nice restorations.
You didn't say (or I didn't see) any description of what method you used for color restoration. I ask because VideoFred worked with StainlessS to produce some newer color correction tools that might be able to do a slightly better job. There is still some residual color in some of the white highlights (like the water foam). |
22nd February 2017, 18:01 | #984 | Link | |
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The past few films we did had such poor color and dyes that if i adjusted one color it would screw up something else on the film. A more true example of what we've been able to do is here: https://vimeo.com/204823084/f2b67232cb -t |
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22nd February 2017, 20:18 | #985 | Link |
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Here is the thread where StainlessS and VideoFred work together on an automated color correction tool for film:
GamMac v1.02 - 17 July 2016 |
22nd February 2017, 22:22 | #986 | Link |
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@wdwms:
Color correction is good, but can you not upload better quality? Also, can we download an original, not manupulated file somewhere? That would be fine to test GamMac on it. @ John: I know you are working with MT. Have you tested the latest Avisynth Plus? The MT option is incredible: sometimes 3-4 times faster. @ Everybody DePanStabilize() works a LOT better when motion vectors are created with MDepan() from the MVTools2 package. Fred.
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About 8mm film: http://www.super-8.be Film Transfer Tutorial and example clips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4QBsWXKuV8 More Example clips: http://www.vimeo.com/user678523/videos/sort:newest |
22nd February 2017, 22:45 | #987 | Link | |
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My finals are lagartith lossless and I then Mp4 encode them, whatever Vimeo does to them after that, i'm not sure. All my sources from the transfers are v210 lossless AVIs at 1080, 18fsp. Most are in the 20-60gb file range. I can get you a few clips together you can try your color correction on. Would Lagarith be ok? -t |
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22nd February 2017, 23:22 | #988 | Link | |
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Can you be specific about which AVISynth Plus build I should try? I'd really like to try that out. Also, have you posted the code where you use MDepan from MVTools2 to created the stabilization? I must have missed that. |
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22nd February 2017, 23:32 | #989 | Link | ||
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Fred.
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About 8mm film: http://www.super-8.be Film Transfer Tutorial and example clips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4QBsWXKuV8 More Example clips: http://www.vimeo.com/user678523/videos/sort:newest |
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22nd February 2017, 23:46 | #990 | Link | ||
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No, I have not posted it yet. But I do it now: Code:
vectors= yourclip.MSuper().MAnalyse(isb=false) mdata= MDepan(yourclip,vectors,rot=false, zoom=false) stabilized=yourclip.DePanStabilize(data=mdata,cutoff=0.5, dxmax=60,dymax=60,zoommax=0,rotmax=0,method=0,info=true) Fred.
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About 8mm film: http://www.super-8.be Film Transfer Tutorial and example clips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4QBsWXKuV8 More Example clips: http://www.vimeo.com/user678523/videos/sort:newest |
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23rd February 2017, 22:09 | #992 | Link |
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I did briefly use Groucho's installer and installed the 32-bit version of AVISynth+. I immediately got errors stating that SetMTMode was not supported. I thought that multi-threading was supported, but since it isn't, and since I was mostly interested in the possibility of this version being faster, I immediately uninstalled it, because I'm working against a deadline.
When I have more time, perhaps I'll try it again. |
23rd February 2017, 22:20 | #993 | Link | |
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http://avisynth.nl/index.php/AviSynt...orrect_MT_mode Please remove all SetMTMode() calls from your script. They are not recognised in Avisynth+. Then put this at the beginning of your script: Code:
SetFilterMTMode("DEFAULT_MT_MODE", 2) Code:
Prefetch(4)
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About 8mm film: http://www.super-8.be Film Transfer Tutorial and example clips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4QBsWXKuV8 More Example clips: http://www.vimeo.com/user678523/videos/sort:newest |
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1st April 2017, 01:15 | #995 | Link |
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Not sure where to post this ... Raspberry Pi used for capture.
https://www.raspberrypi.org/magpi-issues/MagPi56.pdf page 30 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57OWBpZ3eN4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeYRGvWeYXo Last edited by hydra3333; 1st April 2017 at 01:18. |
22nd August 2017, 02:10 | #997 | Link |
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Recently completed a new 8mm Cine2Digits based transfer system and am trying to make sure everything is as good as possible before continuing the transfers.
Any recommendations to improve the capture or the results? Happy to offer frames files for testing. VideoFred’s script with no interpolation/frame blending is running at 0.4 fps (the settings I changed are below). Any way to improve it without sacrificing output quality? My custom built PC is fairly new with an i7-6700K processor, 16GB RAM, and an Intel 750 series SSD. The final frame size is fairly large at 1664 x 1264 which contributes to some of the slowness. I tried JohnMeyer’s script and it also ran at 0.4fps. Changed JohnMeyer options: maxstabH 15, maxstabV 20, dirt strength 15, threads 3, increased max memory. Also how should I add the GamMac script to VideoFred’s script? I am not sure how to use the FredAverage and without it, using VideoFred and GamMac’s script is resulting in noticeable color banding as mentioned elsewhere. Would changing the plastic diffuser on the Cine2Digits to an opal glass diffuser improve blooming or anything else in the transfer? Setup: 1. Eumig Mark 610D, projector blades removed, gate widened, set to 6fps capture. Hall effect sensor with magnet attached to the cam (?) inside 2. Point Grey Machine Vision camera CM3-U3-31S4C-CS Chameleon3 3.2 MP Color USB3 Vision (Sony IMX265) + Point Grey 9 pin 0.15m GPIO Cable with JST Connector 3. Schneider Componon 50mm f/2.8 lens, set to f/5.6 4. Kulicke Soffa Multi-axis linear positioning xyz stage for focus and framing adjustment of the camera 5. Flim cleaned with Edwal anti-stat; no wetgate transfer (above example is Oct. 1965 Kodachrome Regular 8mm) 6. Cine2Digits Lighting System and Capture Program, RGB dials set to 1.47, capturing to 16 bit TIFF, highlights restored with lightroom and saved to 8 bit TIFF and then converted to 16fps uncompressed AVI (is there a way to adjust the capture in Cine2Digits to replicate the restoration of highlights in a 16 bit capture – maybe with adjusting the LUT graph?). Trigger delay 70ms. Auto levels, no custom color correction. camera settings: source format bayerRG16 Bilinear HQ analog gain 0 auto off black level 0 white balance : red auto off, set to 1.8 blue auto off, set to 1.1 7. Processing with VideoFred’s script. Changed options: dirt_strength 15, denoising strength 150, USM sharpness 10, last_sharp 0.2, last_blur 0.05. No interpolation or frame blending (interpolation slowed down the script to 0.1fps from 0.4fps). Last edited by JoeSuper8; 22nd August 2017 at 02:12. |
22nd August 2017, 03:40 | #998 | Link |
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Something is wrong if you used my script and got less than 0.4 fps. My system uses an HD camcorder for capture but I down-res in the camera to 720x480 and use that for restoration. I usually get between 10 and 15 fps. You should try higher and lower resolutions and then compare the capture results. For 8mm, I doubt very, very much that you will get one additional ounce of detail by going above 720x480, but you need to try it yourself with your own equipment.
Even when restoring higher resolution captures, I seem to remember performance numbers considerably higher than yours. Can you upload about 10-15 seconds of one of your original captures and I'll run it through my latest script and tell you what I get. I don't know anything about the sensor/camera you are using. It sounds similar to VideoFred's equipment. I don't know what sort of gamma control you have, nor do I know if you can monitor the capture while it is happening and tell if you are blowing out highlights. I say this because, on my computer, the Vimeo version of your transfer looks like you've lost a lot of detail in the highlights. Remember that the mantra in film transfer is "expose for the highlights." This may result in a dark capture, but you can gain that in post and then reduce any noise in the shadows using the MDegrain portion of VideoFred's script (and my adaptation of that script). I use a regular camcorder (Sony FX1) for my captures, and use its zebra controls to tell me when to alter the exposure from the default. Also, it has a "spotlight" function that is designed to keep from overexposing a stage actor in a spotlight, surrounded by a dark stage. It works wonders during most film captures. Here is a link to my 1940 Flint Michigan parade footage. I offer it because it too is a parade, and you can compare the highlights on the flag, drum heads, white flowers on the floats, etc. In most cases, you can see plenty of detail in these bright areas. 1940 Flint Michigan Parade As you can tell, I used motion interpolation on that clip to make it smoother. I am generally not a big fan of doing this, but the judder on that particular 16 fps capture was pretty bad. Here is another parade, this one from 8mm film, that I kept at the original 15 fps: 1971 Tournament of Roses Parade There is a little loss of detail on some of the dresses. Last edited by johnmeyer; 22nd August 2017 at 03:42. Reason: added info about zebra control |
22nd August 2017, 03:55 | #999 | Link |
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Here is a link to a JPG image sequence, one frame per capture for about 15 seconds: https://www.dropbox.com/s/us621w1arh...0clip.zip?dl=0
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22nd August 2017, 11:06 | #1000 | Link |
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Hi Joe,
Welcome here First of all, please try to capture as good as possible. Later, we can talk about Gammac etc.... About the Jpeg image sequence: you have not captured the full 0-255 range. It's more like 0-125. You have set red auto and blue auto off. Why? One of the great benefits of C2D is the exellent auto exposure feature. If you set the limit to 245 you will almost never get blown out whites. Sharpness can be better also. Have you tried to find the 'sweet spot' from your lens? Every lens has a sweet spot. Easy to check: in C2D, use internal flashing and play with the lens aperture. At a certain point the image will look sharpest. This is your sweet spot. Leave it there forever. Then you can fine focus with your camera slide. Also, there is no need to save as image sequence. I always save straight to AVI, at 15fps! I'm using the Canopus HQX codec for this but Lagarith etc.. will work fine too. Uncompressed is also an option but it creates huge files and why would we do it.. You will see no visual difference. About the speed from the script: downscaling the source will speed up the script a lot. You can upscale again at the very end of the script. https://forum.doom9.org/showthread.p...55#post1810955 many greetings, Fred.
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About 8mm film: http://www.super-8.be Film Transfer Tutorial and example clips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4QBsWXKuV8 More Example clips: http://www.vimeo.com/user678523/videos/sort:newest Last edited by videoFred; 22nd August 2017 at 11:09. |
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