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19th May 2020, 09:14 | #381 | Link | |
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19th May 2020, 15:25 | #382 | Link |
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Your first sentence sounds good to me.
I calibrated first time a year ago and I don't see anything wrong but you can't measure with eyes.The verification(never done it) that huhn mentioned before calibrating now can show how off are things and start from there I guess. I have in mind to calibrate every October for example and I am not a perfectionist but I also don't want my calibration to become pointless now that I have a meter,something like that. DeltaE >3 will be perceptible to the viewer I've read.I'll keep this as an indication I guess. I have to move my TV first to calibrate every time and I don't see how others in same occasion have the appetite to do it every 300 hours They have better TV I guess.I don't think it's worth it for the cheap 50 inch samsung I have. Thanks guys. |
3rd June 2020, 14:28 | #385 | Link |
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Hey guys, hoping someone can help here. I've searched everywhere for an answer but can't find my exact use case.
When you create a 3D LUT for MadVR using Display CAL you target a certain gamma. In MadVR's Gamma Processing tab could you then use that to change the Gamma of your LUT? e.g. say if I had a Gamma 2.4 LUT created, tracks perfectly 2.4 from verification. I now want a daytime viewing Gamma - could I just select 2.2 in Gamma processing? Will MadVR understand that the LUT is at Gamma 2.4? Or is it expecting a specific default Gamma for the LUT if you want to use Gamma Processing? |
4th June 2020, 06:15 | #387 | Link |
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Hoping to get confirmation on that - because in that case the best thing to do with DisplayCAL is just to create a Gamma 2.2 LUT and let MadVR do any changes you need.
The reason I was asking was for 3D movies on my JVC x9000. Calibrating after the glasses is a bit of a faf compared to a regular flat panel. Some movies benefit from a lower Gamma due to a peak white of only 15 nits after the glasses. Doing it that way would save me time - but I guess I'll bust out the meter again or rely on JVC's own Gamma adjustments. |
4th June 2020, 06:22 | #388 | Link | |
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Disclaimer: I use calibration to fix issues I can see. Otherwise it's a numbers obsession IMHO. - My C6 had terrible low IRE greyscale that looked purple/blue and high gamma at low IRE which exacerbated compression noise. A MadVR 3D LUT took that out like magic. I'm not really interested in objective colour accuracy - it's a nice side benefit but if that drifts I'm fine with it. - My JVC x9000 that I bought used had a calibration applied to it. I could visibly see the green looked luminous on Cover Art in Kodi/Plex. I used JVC'a Autocal and it corrected it nicely. With a PJ I do it after 800 hours or so. They dirft way more and historically have had Gamma droop issues. - My C9 - ran a 3D LUT with MadVR and could see no visible difference between factory and the LUT after a minor whitepoint adjustment. In fact factory Gamma hid the compression noise way better, so I'm never calibrating that. |
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5th June 2020, 07:35 | #390 | Link |
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I went ahead and created a 2.6 and 2.4 Gamma 3D LUT for my C6 OLED. Very happy with the results. I like to target higher gamma on the C6 to reduce compression noise, while having no shadow crush. After realising you don't need to measure Gamma on the calibration tab it's massively reduced the time it takes to run a 3D LUT so I don't mind doing it again.
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21st July 2020, 21:43 | #393 | Link |
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The usual recommendation is to re-calibrate about once a year, depending on your display type. Projectors tend to drift more than monitors/TVs. Every 3-4 months for a monitor is overkill, but then again why not, if you have your own equipment
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Henry | LG OLED65C7P | Denon AVR-X3500H | ELAC Uni-Fi x7 | ELAC Debut 2.0 SUB3030 x2 | NVIDIA SHIELD TV Pro 2019 | Plex |
21st July 2020, 21:48 | #394 | Link |
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I agree with once a year as good practice.
I might calibrate a new OLED or projector after the first 4-6 months of use and then once a year. At most every six months, every three months is way too often.
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22nd July 2020, 00:11 | #396 | Link |
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I mean, a 3D LUT is not all that involved compared to a manual calibration. It all comes down to OCD. When I first got my meter, I would bust it out almost every night, and this was before I ever messed with DisplayCAL, back in 2013. Then in 2015, when I got my fist 4K LED display, I started doing auto-cals using madTPG. Once I got the hang of it, I left everything alone until my next TV purchase. That was my current C7 OLED, and I don't recall exactly how many 3D LUTs I created, but I do know that the last one I made was in January of 2018. It still looks great, and I haven't noticed anything different. In fact, the TV has seemingly gotten better over the years, as can be the case with OLED. These days I'm simply too lazy to calibrate. My next TV will be ordered pre-calibrated from VE (by jrref, for those who know him). Calibration can be an awesome hobby, but the cost of keeping up with equipment and software can be very high, if you're intent on doing it right.
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Henry | LG OLED65C7P | Denon AVR-X3500H | ELAC Uni-Fi x7 | ELAC Debut 2.0 SUB3030 x2 | NVIDIA SHIELD TV Pro 2019 | Plex Last edited by VBB; 22nd July 2020 at 00:13. |
15th November 2020, 03:48 | #398 | Link |
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I reset. Most professional workflows I have seen reset but I am not sure what actually goes bad if you don't reset.
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22nd October 2021, 23:52 | #400 | Link |
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Hello!
Beyond calibrating my SDR TV I have created an HDR to SDR lut with displaycal's video 3DLut for Madvr HDR using default settings and in Madvr I've set 100 peak nits like my SDR calibration.Have I done things right? |
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