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Old 29th January 2012, 22:36   #11941  |  Link
ryrynz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LordX2 View Post
1. Does anyone know what is in the newer versions that it causing them to have this hiccup?
Doesn't look to be settings related, only Madshi I think knows what the issue might be and considering the number of times it's been mentioned I'm sure it's on his higher priority todo list.

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2. Am I missing anything quality wise if I stay with 0.50 given what I watch?
Considering you've said that 0.34 was working for you perfectly I would say no, stick with 0.50. I remember versions as far back as 0.09 that were working fine for me.
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Old 30th January 2012, 03:25   #11942  |  Link
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So there have been no specific Movie Output QUALITY improvements for 1080p or 720p MKV files since 0.34 or 0.50?
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Old 30th January 2012, 03:42   #11943  |  Link
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Also - I noticed in the newer MadVR settings there was an option to select the processing of VC-1 material (Along with h.264 and another one).

This setting is not in the older versions.

Do the older versions automatically process VC-1?
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Old 30th January 2012, 05:42   #11944  |  Link
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Originally Posted by LordX2 View Post
So there have been no specific Movie Output QUALITY improvements for 1080p or 720p MKV files since 0.34 or 0.50?
0.66 had internal precision enhanced besides that I'm not aware of anything.

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Originally Posted by LordX2 View Post
Also - I noticed in the newer MadVR settings there was an option to select the processing of VC-1 material (Along with h.264 and another one).

This setting is not in the older versions.

Do the older versions automatically process VC-1?
From 0.67 internal decoders were added, this is what you're seeing displayed.

Might be best to just stick with 0.50 until Madshi works it out, though it might be useful for you to determine at what version your lip sync problems occur and whether you experience any dropped or glitched frames.
CTRL+J will bring up the OSD to see this, also you could try 0.80/0.79 again but without full screen exclusive mode enabled.

Last edited by ryrynz; 30th January 2012 at 05:56.
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Old 30th January 2012, 18:20   #11945  |  Link
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With any renderer, the first thing you should do is to setup the black/white level correctly. Which GPU are you using? When using AMD, set the pixel format to "RGB Full" (or whatever it is named) in the AMD control panel. When using NVidia, make sure you use a custom resolution. Doing this will switch the GPU to full range RGB output. Then in madVR you can switch between video and PC levels. Make sure you use the correct one.

Setting up contrast (or rather the grayscale) should be done at your display, not the video renderer. Also switch your display to the correct colorspace (BT.709), then there's no need to twiddle around with color controls in the renderer. Finally, if your display is bad and shows grossly wrong colors, you can use madVR + yCMS to calibrate your display. But for that you'd need to have your own meter.
Madshi brought this up in the lav thread and said move it over here, so I'm moving it

TVs have their own set of controls, nvidia/amd control panels another, mpc-hc, madVR, and even LAV video lets you control the rgb output level. The interaction between these is not obvious (to me anyway). I've tried various calibration tools/images with less than satisfactory results. I find I have to jump back and forth, tweaking some things on the TV, some on the control panel. (I have an nvidia card and am using a custom resolution).

So, how are people out there doing this that gives them a good result?
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Old 31st January 2012, 08:18   #11946  |  Link
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbordas View Post
Madshi brought this up in the lav thread and said move it over here, so I'm moving it

TVs have their own set of controls, nvidia/amd control panels another, mpc-hc, madVR, and even LAV video lets you control the rgb output level. The interaction between these is not obvious (to me anyway). I've tried various calibration tools/images with less than satisfactory results. I find I have to jump back and forth, tweaking some things on the TV, some on the control panel. (I have an nvidia card and am using a custom resolution).

So, how are people out there doing this that gives them a good result?
This is how I did mine:

1) RGB Full or Custom Resolution in driver control panel.
2) Display hardware brightness/contrast/RGB adjustments (if RGB can be controlled by the display).
3) Fix remaining issues with ICC profile with windows or calibrate with a meter.
4) If that doesn't fix the issue then use yCMS with madVR and a good meter.

The essence of the fixing the problem deals with going down the chain from broad to specific. The earliest step you can fix calibration issues with, the better and usually the better quality the display as well.
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Old 31st January 2012, 10:17   #11947  |  Link
phoenixxl
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Originally Posted by mbordas View Post
Madshi brought this up in the lav thread and said move it over here, so I'm moving it

TVs have their own set of controls, nvidia/amd control panels another, mpc-hc, madVR, and even LAV video lets you control the rgb output level. The interaction between these is not obvious (to me anyway). I've tried various calibration tools/images with less than satisfactory results. I find I have to jump back and forth, tweaking some things on the TV, some on the control panel. (I have an nvidia card and am using a custom resolution).

So, how are people out there doing this that gives them a good result?

For me when it comes to black levels (my display has a 0-255 range) I use the nvidia control panel http://i.imgur.com/pmckD.png
click adjust video control settings , select "with the nvidia settings" select advanced , disable dynamic contrast and color enhancement , select full dynamic range (0-255).

When I used to use coreavc I set the output to auto for black levels .. now I use madvr to decode h264 and don't bother with coreavc any more. My black levels are good for my monitor by just changing that option . When it comes to my display , I usually start by putting my colour gauge in the middle ,Putting my backlight at 80% (16/20), cranking up my contrast to 100% , brightness to 0. Then keep adding brightness bit by bit till it looks bright enough . From that point I tweak only very little. Also , especially with samsung tv's sharpness is basically a software sharpness filter added onto your video. Put this at 0. not 1 , not a little bit ... no .. 0 . If you want to mess with software sharpeners , use an avisynth filter .. or better , don't .. (watch out though , for some brands of display 50% is a disabled software sharpner , where values under 50 adds a software blur )
All the artificial "enhancements" some displays provide I usually set to off . For shits n giggles some days I mess with motionplus , but it's not really something I use on a regular basis. I am one of those ppl that thinks the 24 fps slideshow is something that should go extinct sooner rather than later , I want 72 / 60 fps output video for movies . Interpolation is no substitute for real freq increases .

This is a good site for test patterns , but i'm sure there are cartloads of sites with comparable things: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/

What I also use the nvidia control panel for is to make a custom 23.976 hz frequency 1920x1080 mode that is as close to 24000/1001 I can be with my hardware so frames are dropped/duplicated as little as possible. To do this , open a video file , windowed in 24 fps mode (23) open nvidia control panel , and edit the custom 23 mode . If you have your madvr ctrl-j information window open (make sure mpc-hs is set up not to change frequency again when going out of full screen(full screen options)) , you will see what the exact result is for your timings. It takes a while to tweak , but after an evening you should bump on something close to 23.976 . http://i.imgur.com/MIdSS.png (if you messed up too much with custom modes , uninstall nvidia drivers completely , and install them again , then restart where you left off , i've had custom frequencies that were stuck 1hz above what i asked and was unable to remove them again, this fixed it)
What I have for a nvidia 590 is This changes for every video card , im just putting this here as an illustration.
H V
active pixels 1920 1080
Front porch 638 4
sync width 44 5
total pixels 2622 1096
refresh at 23.976

Press apply every time you test , the ctrl j info from madvr will change when you press apply , check if you are closer or farther to 23.976 , write down how close you are on a piece of paper , test again.

The number you should test with first is the Total pixels horizontal value , start at 2605 , when you reach 2700 , change the vertical value a bit , then restart from 2605 for horizontal again. If you are lucky, after some time you'll find the numbers that are ideal for your card.

!!!important!!!! If you start fiddling with modes that are way out of your display's capabilities , you may break your hardware , so don't do anything too rash!

Hope this helped a bit
Kind regards.

Last edited by phoenixxl; 31st January 2012 at 10:32.
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Old 31st January 2012, 17:52   #11948  |  Link
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When using AMD, set the pixel format to "RGB Full" (or whatever it is named) in the AMD control panel.
I have ATI 4670 an no option about RGB in ATI CC. How can i force RGB use ?
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Old 31st January 2012, 22:57   #11949  |  Link
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Originally Posted by Remicade View Post
When using AMD, set the pixel format to "RGB Full" (or whatever it is named) in the AMD control panel.
I have ATI 4670 an no option about RGB in ATI CC. How can i force RGB use ?
I think you have the option only for HDMI connections
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Old 1st February 2012, 09:12   #11950  |  Link
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I have DVI---> HDMI connection.
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Old 1st February 2012, 09:30   #11951  |  Link
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Then you have RGB 0-255 already.
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Old 1st February 2012, 23:54   #11952  |  Link
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Anyone else tried using the new Nvidia 295.51 drivers with madVR?

Playback seems fine initially (no worse than other recent drivers) but after 15–20 minutes, it's started dropping frames like crazy. Is this happening with anyone else?

As an aside, timings seem improved. 24Hz is now stable at 24.00008Hz for me.

EDIT: This may be a LAV Filters issue. Switched it from CUVUD to DXVA2 Copyback and it's been smooth for almost an hour.

I can't say if this was the issue or not for sure, until I try playing back a film that I know is fine rather than something new.

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Originally Posted by Portioli View Post
what about 23.976000?
I use ReClock to watch films at their original speed.

Last edited by 6233638; 2nd February 2012 at 00:44.
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Old 2nd February 2012, 00:16   #11953  |  Link
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what about 23.976000?

:P
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Old 2nd February 2012, 00:19   #11954  |  Link
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I've installed it but haven't had a chance to use it yet.
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Old 2nd February 2012, 00:53   #11955  |  Link
Portioli
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6233638 View Post
Anyone else tried using the new Nvidia 295.51 drivers with madVR?

Playback seems fine initially (no worse than other recent drivers) but after 15–20 minutes, it's started dropping frames like crazy. Is this happening with anyone else?

As an aside, timings seem improved. 24Hz is now stable at 24.00008Hz for me.

EDIT: This may be a LAV Filters issue. Switched it from CUVUD to DXVA2 Copyback and it's been smooth for almost an hour.

I can't say if this was the issue or not for sure, until I try playing back a film that I know is fine rather than something new.

I use ReClock to watch films at their original speed.

you prefer 24 over 23.976?

i think that i have read that before on an avs thread
but is that really true?

that the original movie speed is 24hz????
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Old 2nd February 2012, 01:56   #11956  |  Link
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Regarding the new Nvidia drivers, I think it's a LAV Filters issue rather than madVR. I went back to the sections that were causing me problems before now that I've switched from CUVID to DXVA2 Copyback, and they were fine.

Switched back to CUVID and it starts dropping frames like crazy again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Portioli View Post
you prefer 24 over 23.976?

i think that i have read that before on an avs thread
but is that really true?

that the original movie speed is 24hz????
Film is 24.000fps, and is slowed down to 23.976 for legacy compatibility on Blu-ray in NTSC regions. (3:2 at 59.94Hz for displays with no 24p support)

In PAL regions, many Blu-rays have 24.000 on the disc as they have no legacy compatibility issues to worry about. (PAL is 50Hz rather than 59.94 so there's no easy fix, DVDs were sped up to 25fps and thankfully that's over)

Many discs released in PAL regions are still 23.976 though, mainly because it's easier to use the same encode as the NTSC release.


This always seems to spark up a debate whenever it's mentioned, so it's perhaps best left elsewhere.
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Old 2nd February 2012, 05:42   #11957  |  Link
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I could not use the new nvidia beta drivers. They decided that my HDMI connected display used a DVI lead and thus I lost sound over HDMI.
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Old 2nd February 2012, 06:29   #11958  |  Link
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I'm trying out PotPlayer. What I found out is that it can't show subtitle with madVR internal decoder. Anyone know how to fix this?
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Old 2nd February 2012, 06:33   #11959  |  Link
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I prefer to manually add a good 23.9760 mode instead of speeding up video 1 per mil , it's the more elegant solution imo, it's the most "compatible" solution taking all media into account. Speeding up video means speeding up audio and speeding up subtitles. Speeding up audio means in my case it needs to be decoded then encoded again since I use optical output ie it prevents me from using passthrough.

For those that are able to do it display and driver wise I would certainly recommend creating a mode with 23.9760 hz freq over using extra filters .

Don't get me wrong , I'm not saying reclock is badly written or buggy , I think it's a nice addition to the suite of filters available this day . But imo it's to be used as a "fix" when creating a 23.9760 mode is not possible . reclock was created to avoid the "stutter frame" every 41 seconds due to adding duplicates when forcing 23.976 into 24 .

Last edited by phoenixxl; 2nd February 2012 at 07:29.
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Old 2nd February 2012, 08:22   #11960  |  Link
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Originally Posted by 6233638 View Post
Regarding the new Nvidia drivers, I think it's a LAV Filters issue rather than madVR. I went back to the sections that were causing me problems before now that I've switched from CUVID to DXVA2 Copyback, and they were fine.

Switched back to CUVID and it starts dropping frames like crazy again.
Its still a driver issue, nothing else.
CUVID decoding has been rock stable for quite a while and alot of different drivers.

I'll stick with the 290 beta drivers, those have worked quite well for me.

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reclock was created to avoid the "stutter frame" every 41 seconds due to adding duplicates when forcing 23.976 into 24 .
Wrong. ReClock was created to slow-down PAL releases from 25 to 24 fps.
That it became famous to fix all sorts of fps mismatches was not its primary goal back in the day...
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