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video
27th March 2005, 01:38
Huston I've a problem :)

So i've encountered approx ten hours of material shooted between 1954-1970 on 8mm and super8. The films are really in bad conditions, so it's a now or never more situation.
I've an universal cineprojector accepting 8mm and s8 both. It does 16fps, and capeble outputting electronic gate pulses for synchronization purposes.
I've also borowed a JVC camcorder what can do 720p at 24 fps and genlockable in some way.

Main problem:
However I can trim playing speed on the cineprojector I end up with fluctuation 'luma pumping' because the projector cannot hold exact playing speed so precise.

So advices please. Is there any known way genlocking between the projector and the camcorder? I know little about the genlock signal, can anybody help me out with descriptions/shematic diagrams or else?

rfmmars
27th March 2005, 07:51
Some things to keep in mind.

Unless these films were commerically produced, then you are dealing with spring wound or battery operated cameras. So the speed will vary all over the place. You need the right projector and the right camera, not a camcorder.

For best sharpness you want two projectors, one for 8mm and another for Super 8mm. Why, because the dual projectors are hard on film because they use rubber rollers instead of cog wheels to move the film.

Also you want prime lens, not zoom. The projectors that are best for this is Sears Tower Auto load with speed control. It's a 4 blade so the speed is 15 fps, perfect for NTSC. If this will not work for PAL, but it should, you need a 6 blade machine, and they are hard to find.

Bell & Howell made these projectors for Sears but you can get them on E-Bay, the Bell & Howell models too, but they (B&H) have a long load path compared to very short one for the Sears models. Price ranges around $20-30 US plus shipping.

I add many options such as tone codes for back edits, and special projection bulbs with light controlers.

You should have a great camera such as the Mintron .0005 lux.
With this setup there is never a flicker.

This is the basics. If it is Super 8mm sound, then you need that type of projector, Sanyko made units that are perfect for the job under many name plates. They need to be slowed down to get rid of the flicker (adjustment pot inside), and then with the right software to bring everyting back up to speed.

That's it!

richard
photorecall.net

video
27th March 2005, 22:47
rfmmars thanks for the advices i'll run for the equipments you have recommended... err looks like a $500 project :)

edit. sears tower seems hard to buy here in europe :) I've looked at ebay and found 3 models. none of them are sold with shipping possibility otustide the US :(

rfmmars
28th March 2005, 01:01
I would think that these were shipped world wide, the B&H for sure.

What you will want to do is convert the 21 volt 10 hour lifespan bulb to the 2000 hour 21 volt halagen. When you get the projector, e-mail me back at photorecall.net and I will give a simple conversion proceedure.

Make sure that the projector has the speed control, a must.

richard

Fizick
31st March 2005, 21:30
Video,
As a very cheap alternative option, you may consider method of "home-made" projector modification.
We (Eugen65 and I) recently develop it.
No any flicker. Frame per frame capture.
Shortly:
1. remove projector obturator.
2. capture with small fps (manual control neeed).
3. use some program filter (GetDups) to process (decode) captured video.
see http://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=73577