"High speed option BD25" versus "Default"?

[rotty]

Is there a way to set "Sharpen" value in BD Rebuilder.

Also, I only want to use BD Rebuilder for movie only, (movies+audio larger that will fit 25G disc)
Is there a quality advantage in using anything other than "High speed option BD25". In other words will I get much improvement in say using "Default" quality setting if im only compressing to 25G.

[jdobbs]

Is there a way to set "Sharpen" value in BD Rebuilder.

Also, I only want to use BD Rebuilder for movie only, (movies+audio larger that will fit 25G disc)
Is there a quality advantage in using anything other than "High speed option BD25". In other words will I get much improvement in say using "Default" quality setting if im only compressing to 25G. You can be sure that "Default" will always produce better quality than "High Speed" -- but if you are doing a movie-only BD-25 encode, it is very unlikely that you would be able to see the difference.

[rotty]

You can be sure that "Default" will always produce better quality than "High Speed" -- but if you are doing a movie-only BD-25 encode, it is very unlikely that you would be able to see the difference.

Thanks jdobbs

Is there a way to slightly sharpen if wanted. Is there a way in the config text to do this.

[jdobbs]

Thanks jdobbs

Is there a way to slightly sharpen if wanted. Is there a way in the config text to do this.Not currently. I plan to have a filter editor (similar to that in DVD Rebuilder) but haven't done it yet.

[rotty]

Not currently. I plan to have a filter editor (similar to that in DVD Rebuilder) but haven't done it yet.

Thanks jdobbs

[Winenut]

I respectfully disagree with Mr. Dobbs. on his assessment of using BD Rebuilder's quality settings. Since building my new pc (I7 930), I've been able to play around a lot, re-encoding lots of movies using all the different quality settings (for each and comparing the results on my 67" Samsung LED Rear Projection set)...and quite frankly, the only quality option that does a great job consistently (at least for BD25) is the High-Speed option. All the other options add some level of DNR. YES THEY DO!!!. This softens the picture (while reducing the grain - a DNR trademark), shifts the color (to the red) while reducing it, hardens the contrast (another DNR trait), and worst of all...introduces very noticeable motion artifacts (extremely common to DNR). The higher the "so-called" quality setting you choose, the worse it gets. The High-Speed option appears to add little or no DNR (which might explain why it's so fast), and the only side effect I can see, is a slight increase in the color level (without shifting it much). This is most noticeable with films that are already over-saturated (such The Music Man). For BD9 and BD25, the GOOD option appears best, but unlike the High-Speed option, it does introduce some DNR. And like with the BD25 option, the fastest option for BD9 and BD5 does the least clean up (and introduces the fewest DNR related artifacts). Just my opinion of course, but it's based on quite bit of experimentation.

BTW, to re-build a 40+ GB video file (down to BD25) using the Highest Quality setting takes only about 5 hours. Using the High-Speed option it's about an hour (much of which is devoted to just copying the data. I have tried using the Color Boost, but it's awful...resulting is grossly over-saturated color levels.

By way Mr. Dobbs...Love your tool. It's works so well so often and without problems. Or when they do occur, they are minor and before I can report them, they are fixed. Thanks a bunch. Can't wait until you can include an option to remove (or de-select) those pesky extra M2TS files I don't want. But until then, it produces the best quality and is the easiest to use of anything I've tried. And I've tried em all. Or everything I can find. It even does an amazing job compressing down to BD5. You lose some sharpness and detail, but the result ALWAYS looks better than the corresponding DVD.

Oh. One thing perhaps you could explain (if you care to). What I'm had poor success doing is converting M2TS files into DVD (MPEG/VOB). Regardless of the tool (and I've tried everything I can find) and regardless of the input quality, the output quality is almost always crappy...with oodles of artifacts. ConvertXtoDVD seems best (overall), but it's not great. Is there something that inherently prevents a good conversion of an H264 encoded video file to a 480p interlaced format? One thing I have noted that might have an impact, is that Blu-Ray video has a much wider level of dynamic range and contrast. I'm thinking the converters are having problems with the wide dynamic range, because it's the higher contrast scenes are the biggest problem. Which also might explain why the best conversions are of CGI video..such as animated films and films like Avatar.

Oh...and I just thought of a wish-list item that I'll add to that thread...and that's being able to designate a separate WORK folder form the OUTPUT folder. I have many logical and several physical drives. I like to keep the WORK folder on a separate physical drive, as I can get up to 80GB/sec transfer rate drive to drive, and less than half of that when copying within a drive. So the idea is to read from one drive, work on it, and then write back to the original drive. At least for me, this can cut at least 5-10 minutes off the process.

[setarip_old]

@Winenut

Hi! What I'm had poor success doing is converting M2TS files into DVD (MPEG/VOB). Regardless of the tool (and I've tried everything I can find) and regardless of the input quality, the output quality is almost always crappy...with oodles of artifacts.I'd suggest you try multiAVCHD...