ATHLON temperature issue

[sarpijk]

I own an AMD ATHLON 1.4 GHz.I have a question for those with the same cpu;Which is the right temperature for my processor?I don't use any hardware monitoring utility because I've heard they are not reliable so I prefer to restart and see the temperature through the bios.Well for the time being the weather here in Greece is really cold but last summer when I had bought my computer,even the external surface of my case was getting hot..Now I have removed the rear metal pieces of my case and since it's winter time everything works great.But still I am worried of what am I going to do when weather gets hotter.IS an average temperature of 70 c safe to work?

PS:The cpu fan is supposed to work with ATHLONS up to 1.5 GHz(THERMALTAKE VOLCANO 6Cu)

[VorteX]

amds can go upto 90c a good temp for Athlon 1.4 is less than 50 anything over 60 is too high

[Doom9]

actually.. 70C is about the point where the system can start to get instable.. 80C is definitely a nono and you hardly see any cpu running stable at the temperature... and then somewhere around 90-100C the die takes irreversible damage. Your cooler doesn't sound too good.. you should get another one that keeps you below 60C... good coolers will even take you below 50C even under heavy stress.

[Tr!n!]

hi,

i have an AMD XP 1700+ also with Thermaltake Volcano 6cu cooler
and my cpu temp stays below 40°C :)
so think these coolers are pretty decent...
have to amdit i have a rather big case (Chieftec DA-01BD)
and some extra fans (perhaps a good idea for u2 sarpijk)


if ure interested check this beauty http://www.overclock.co.uk/moreinfo.php?id=265

[[-oKs-]]

i have the amd 1.4 ghz 266fsb... currently running 4 fans in it, with the sides off... i found it ran a little hot with the sides on... possibly because i have 4 72' hd's in it and its only an 18" case, but i found she cooled off quite a bit when i took them off, and best of all it costs
nothing 2 do ;)
hope this helps


☺☻¢¼¢¼¢¼¢¼

[sarpijk]

well my sides are already off but still it's to hot.Should I buy a fan with speed of 7000 rpm?Thanks anyway

[roy]

If you want to lower temperature use CPUCOOL. Without it I have 50-52, with it 35-37.

[Tr!n!]

Should I buy a fan with speed of 7000 rpm?
Perhaps u should but keep in mind these are really noisy...
Or just put some extra fans in your case
Also read that some mobo's give higher temp's than others,
but 70°C is to high anyway
Good Luck

[sarpijk]

thanks I 've already ordered a globalwin FQP 38.

[Tr!n!]

ok let us know if it helps
ciao

[chemmajik]

Your going to hate that delta they are loud unless you seal the case good. Adding a rheostat 100ohm 10watt allows you to reduce its noise & find that exact tempature you can live with & noise. You can run the delta at 7volts also, or just use a 10ohm 10watt resistor to have the fan run at 10volts. To run at 7volts tie the positive wire to 12v line & run the negative to the 5 volt line from the fan. Also make sure your motherboard can handle a delta plugged into it, I've seen alot of motherboard burn traces because they couldnt handle high rpm fans, thats why you run direct to the PSU. Some motherboards will still allow you to run the blue rpm wire to the cpu fan header to still get rpms.

[ThePanda]

volcano sucks, my 1.33ghz system always crashed. then i went to delta 38. way too loud. then i made my own design using tupperware and a baby wipes container :D with two 120mm low-speed panaflo fans, and added some arctic silver. 100x quieter now and actually runs cooler than with the delta, and the rest of my system stays cooler too because the cpu is pretty isolated. it was a day's work though as i had almost no idea what i was going to do when i opened the computer :D. I am still using the heatsink from the volcano though (although I shouldn't be since the fins aren't going the right direction for the air to flow through them with my design, I just didn't want to buy another)

[Tr!n!]

hehe :)
or u could do watercooling of course: no noise and pretty low temps

[takeru]

i use a alpha pal 8045 with a 80mm 42cfm sunon. nice and quiet at 36db, and 39 degrees celcius. :) i also have some crazy 80mm 80cfm 52db delta fans too, but i prefer my sanity and hearing at this time instead if high cooling power...

[omol]

Originally posted by takeru
i use a alpha pal 8045 with a 80mm 42cfm sunon. nice and quiet at 36db, and 39 degrees celcius. :) i also have some crazy 80mm 80cfm 52db delta fans too, but i prefer my sanity and hearing at this time instead if high cooling power...

Try running the delta 80 @7v, that's what I'm doing. It's much less annoying but blow away any 80mm fan, except for another delta 80....;)

regards,
omol

[Tr!n!]

so the volcano's really suck?
why do i get so low temps?
is it the Amd TB running hotter than the XP's?
or does my mobo gives gives too low temps?

[omol]

Originally posted by Tr!n!
so the volcano's really suck?
why do i get so low temps?
is it the Amd TB running hotter than the XP's?
or does my mobo gives gives too low temps?

No socket A mobo gives accurate temp readout since they DON'T read the on die thermal diode of Palomino K7 but rather thru the in socket thermal diode which is bad bad bad, except 1 siemens' socket A mobo which is only avail in Europe.

regards,
omol

[takeru]

Originally posted by omol


Try running the delta 80 @7v, that's what I'm doing. It's much less annoying but blow away any 80mm fan, except for another delta 80....;)

regards,
omol

how did you get it to run at that voltage? i tried to find a rheostat to use with it but could never find one strong enough to support the amount of voltage of the fan.

[omol]

Originally posted by takeru


how did you get it to run at that voltage? i tried to find a rheostat to use with it but could never find one strong enough to support the amount of voltage of the fan.

It's simple, no need to get any extra electronic component. You just need to get a 3->4 wire adapter, and follow the intructions here (http://www.overclocker.com.hk/reviews/technical/cable/index.htm). Yes, I know, the instructions is in Chinese, but the picture there is explainatory enough I hope. The only drawback is you loose the ability to mon the rpm of the modified fan.

regards,
omol

[Synge]

im running an atholon 1.4ghz, and at this time of year the ambient temperature is about 20 degress C. the average cpu temperature i get is normally from 48 to 52 degress C. hope this helps...

[nikthebak]

So, have any of you had any particular problems when using the 7 volts trick?

The problem is that few power supplies do an enmergency shutdown when they detect anomalious voltage at the 5 V wire.

Other problem is that the 5 V interface can't handle much current at all; a 100 W Delta Jet Thrust (tm) rigged at 12 V and 5 V interfaces could actually damage your power supply. Be sure to consult http://www.7volts.com for more information and noise control tips!

Considering this, buying few 10-15 ohm resistors might not be such a bad idea. I once used rheostats (I thought it was cool to have knobs sticking out at the front panel of your PC :D ) but replaced them with resistors since I just tuned them into "low noise" - voltage and forgot them.

I also once had a "daytime/nighttime" switch to run the current to fans directly or through resistors. I discarded it too since I ended up using only the "nighttime" mode :p

Edit: Drats. I found out that in my language capacitor is condensator and rheostat is potentiometre. Go figure.

[SpEeDaMiGo]

I can absolutely recommend to control your fans with potentiometers, I don't like to have them fixed to one specific rpm. I set my two front 80mm fans (YS-Tech silent) (which cool my three 7200rpm hd's too) parallel and control them via a potentiometer. The two fans of my enermax power supply are also controlled via one potentiometer. Finally the same applies to my two back fans (1x 80mm and 1x 92mm).
These combination gives me really great control over temp/noise ratio. There is a significant treshold, where the temp is best for the noise they create ... all potentiometers about half the way turned.
I've lined (wrong word for this ? don't know, I'm not english) my entire case with cork and accustic foam and thus it's really quiet (with the fans set at about half the speed). I love these potentiometer... they look so freaky at the front panel of my pc case.

My 1000 AthlonB runs stable at 1330 (9.5x140) and default voltage. I've got an Alpha PAL6035 with fan adapter and a YS-Tech 80mm standard fan. With the potentionmeter-controlled fans at half max speed I get around 48°C (ambient room temp. 22-23° ... my pc heats my room up like hell) under full load and ~44° when idle. Northbridge stays around 26°C. I'm absolutely happy with these temps since the pc is really quiet given the fact that there are totally nine fans and 3 hd's in there.
My hd's are also VERY happy, since they don't even get warm with those fans directly blowing cold air over them.
btw I've built my own wooden hd cage lined with cork, thus there aren't any vibrations "transferred" to the whole pc case. I almost can't hear my hd's ... even under full data transfer or search access.

If I turn the potentiometers all the way back (max. ohm) I can almost watch the blades turning, thus I can use the whole rpm spectrum the fans offer.
Just do some basic maths and physics to calculate the ohm and max. watt values for your potentiometers ... if you'd like to you can contact me. But make sure you get good quality fans, which still run below 7-8V.

Regarding Athlon temps, I wouldn't go over 60°C indicated temp (bios, cpucool eg), cause the temp. sensor ain't just inside the cpu die, thus die temp. is about 20-30 degrees hotter I'd say. And I think 100°C die temp. is the absolute maximum AMD tells.

Hope, this thread didn't annoy anyone. Just some thoughts ....

[jwhitacre]

I recently posted this Thread.

http://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15251

Does this seem consistant with what I would see if my CPU was badly overheating? In other words what would you see in a bad overheat. Could this result in a loss of all hard drive info.

[takeru]

Originally posted by jwhitacre
I recently posted this Thread.

http://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15251

Does this seem consistant with what I would see if my CPU was badly overheating? In other words what would you see in a bad overheat. Could this result in a loss of all hard drive info.

hmmm... from the information you gave, i think it might be something with your hd. it would seem whenever you write to your hd for a long period of time it will die. if its 7200rpm or lower then i don't think your hd died of heat reasons. maybe you have a bad hd.

[gnittor]

my 1400@1500 [10x150] using a silverado [@ 10V] was reaching about 63C full load and usually crashed [lian li case, enermax 450w psu]. i got my dremel and i modified the case to fit a 92mm panaflo fan where the old 80mm was... case temp has dropped, and cpu now reaches max 57C. i've ordered an alpha about a week ago, still waiting for it. this will probably drop chip's temp....

brw, i'm from greece too and summer and athlons are a really bad combination there....

[DDogg]

I used to tear my hair out about some of these issues until I started using prime 95 to truly test how solid a unit was. It serves two purposes. The first is it pushes your proc to the max so you will know what your temps will be on a long video encode. The second and most important is the method of calulation will show up the slightest anomolie in your processor.

I've seen many people that OC their machines and judge them by whether they crash or not. That is a very big mistake. PCs can continue to run while making computational errors induced by heat or when running the proc or memory to hard. I can pretty much guarantee you a solid machine if it will run Prime95 for a day or two without errors.

The advise above about mounting one large 90 mm fan in the front or side is right on, IMO. Many people stick a silly number of small fans everywhere they can find a place for one. Unless you have the power supply to handle them they will cause you unpredictable problems by sapping too much power from your PW.

BTW, to the original question, I run a 1.4 tb at 150 fsb. With a decent heatsink and the above mentioned fan on the front my proc runs about 44 to 52 degrees C.

[Slick]

and they wonder why people buy Intel...:D LOL
(P4 1.7 @1.9 - 3x 7200rpm 40gb hdds, case fan "NO PROBLEMS" no patches, no firmware hacks, no incompatibility issues.)just switch on & go.:D

I wouldnt like to pay your electricity bills if you are cooking 350 watt + power supplies.:)

[Zhnujm]

my athlon xp 1800 runs at max 81 degrees. anybody else gets such high values with an athlon xp ?

[da franksta]

Celsius?

[Zhnujm]

yes :) would think its a problem with the cpu cooler but cant find anything and it runs stable in any test (encoding for days,prime95,3d benchmarking)

[takeru]

man, how do you people get such high temperatures?

system stats:
ultra scsi 18gig 10k rpm 8meg cache wd (boot drive)
ide 46gig 7200rpm ibm
ide 80gig 7200rpm wd
ide 60gig 5400rpm wd
2x256 corsair pc2400 DDR
enermax 430watt psu
soyo dragon plus mobo
alpha 8045 with 42CFM fan
two case fans at 42CFM

my case temperature never goes above 39C no matter what i do. idle temp is like 29C.

[theReal]

I have an Athlon 1400@1512, 1.85V, I'm using a Silverado Cooler that I trimmed to 3200 up/m per fan with a potentiometer (it's the last setting that is inaudible in my fan-concerto). Before, I was using a Globalwin Cooler with a y.s. tech power 8cm fan - it was louder, but it was still ok (much better than any shrieking 6cm fan!).

These two setups were keeping about the same temperatures - never reached more than 48.5°C (with a maximum room temp of 23°C). I think I need to re-setup the Silverado and use a little less thermal paste, then it might even do one or two degrees less. I'm not using Arctic Silver but a pretty good thermal paste with metal particles which is somewhere in between the standard silicon paste and Arctic Silver.
Of course the coolers must be polished until they shine like a mirror before you apply them...

Apart from that I have a Chieftec tower with two y.s. tech standard 8cm fans blowing out, one 8cm blowing out from the leadman PSU (2nd one removed!), a 5cm Pabst on the Chipset (quiet!) and the fan on my ATI Rage 7500.

Unfortunately I don't think I can get the system much more quiet because I need the airflow through the case (my RAM is at 2.9V...). But on the other hand, the sound of the outblowing 8cm fans isn't that annoying (and it's the only thing I hear from the system)

[Crash-]

a real cheap way to cut the temp of your cpu is to simply drop your vcore by %10 percent (ususally you can get away with this and still run reliably), provided your motherboard's bios supports this feature. if not you can always manually drop your vcore by modifing your L7 bridge on your athlon cpu (which i wouldn't suggest for the faint of heart). also another "cheap" trick would be to construct a duct to be fitted over the fan on your heatsink, thereby allowing for intake of cooler air rather than recirculating warm air around the hsf. but if you don't mind spending some cash, a peliter junction would do the trick nicely or if you're so inclined water cooling is probably the best route.

[rui]

I have a AMD XP 1600+ OC to 1,55 Ghz, which was warming till 58º. I have a Alpha PAL 8045 with a silent papst fan. My case was on the small side.
Well, i have recently changed to a larger case, mounted a 80mm Sunnon fan extracting air that came from the papst fan (my alpha's fan is mounted sucking air, not pushing it), and my temps lowered to 50/51º. :)

[theReal]

a real cheap way to cut the temp of your cpu is to simply drop your vcore by %10 percent (ususally you can get away with this and still run reliably), provided your motherboard's bios supports this feature.and provided your motherboard doesn't have +10% as the lowest possible setting, like my Epox 8K7A+ on which you can set the voltage everywhere from 1.85V to 2.20V, but not below...

[chemmajik]

I forgot about this thread, yeah I found the key to having success with a 10v modded delta is have the intake fan low & exhaust fans high. Good case air circulation even with a open case helps but that top exhaust fan usually will keep the temps down 10-20c.

[movmasty]

watercooling, is it easy?
how it works??

______________________
...if the truth hurts,prepare for lies..

[theReal]

watercooling, is it easy?I haven't tried it myself, but no, it's not easy. You have to invest a lot of time and work (and maybe one or the other cpu in between...) to build a good watercooling system.

[ammer]

http://www.tomshardware.com/ has guides for this

[uglyduck]

Originally posted by Tr!n!
hi,

i have an AMD XP 1700+ also with Thermaltake Volcano 6cu cooler
and my cpu temp stays below 40°C :)
so think these coolers are pretty decent...
have to amdit i have a rather big case (Chieftec DA-01BD)
and some extra fans (perhaps a good idea for u2 sarpijk)


if ure interested check this beauty http://www.overclock.co.uk/moreinfo.php?id=265

I read it from somewhere that AMD knows about Athlon or Thunderbird generating high temperature.

Xp would not have serious problem if you use decent cooler

[markrb]

Just so you guys know those software coolers work only in idle mode and do nothing for a CPU under load. What it does is basically put the CPU to sleep when it's not being used. On some of the hardware boards there are some pretty heated debates over whether putting the CPU to sleep and cooling it down is a good idea. Some claim that having many wide swings in temperture over time can cause damage to a CPU. These people point to the fact that chipsets have had this ability built in for some time, but Intel and AMD have asked that this not be put into use. For proof just go to www.viahardware.com and lookup some of the options to Wpcredit. It's a program that can change chipset registers on Via 133, 266 and 266a chipsets setting registers 92 and 95(266 and 266a) will turn on the sleep function of the CPU. I tried it and and saw my CPU drop 8C while doing light duty like surfing. It did nothing for load temps as it shouldn't since the CPU never sleeps under load.

For my heatsink I used to have a 60mm copper heatsink with a Delta black 7k fan. I was almost insane with the noise. I then got an Alpha 8045 and even though I had to slightly mod it for the heatsink to fit my motherboard it was probably the best thing I ever bought for my computer. I coupled it with the same Sunon fan mentioned above and I am now sane again.
I don't really pay attention to temps anymore, but I used to average around 41C under light duty and up to 45C under heavy load on my XP 1700+. Don't forget that for AMD CPU's you are reading temps off the lead on the motherboard under the CPU. So the temp is not very accurate. My probe might be bent 1mm closer then yours and then read 2c higher. Until motherboards start supporting the onboard probe of the Athlons we are all just making educated guesses.

Mark

[theblaze74]

Are all of you talking about temps during cce encoding? 100% cpu? Not just idle?

I read reviews of the best heatsinks for Athlon XP, and finally chose the copper SK-6 from thermaltake.Found one cheap on ebay, put on a layer of Arctic Silver and fired it up.

While encoding, I get 84 to 88 degrees celcius. Rock solid stability at 1.8RT. Sides off the case.

Athlon XP 1600+
kt333 chipset
512mb pc3000 memory
ibm 120gxp raid array

[theReal]

84°-88°C is way too high. Even if your mainboard reads the temperature from the internal diode, it's still too high.

I have an XP 1900+ now, overclocked to 2000+ (1680 MHz) at 1.8V and it never went over 45°C, not while encoding and not while running Prime95.
With the temperature read from the internal diode, you could add about 13-15°C to this, so I'd be at 60°C maximum. Your temps should come down about 15-20°C, or even more if your board is not reading from the internal temp. diode.